Jump to content
SAU Community

Fuel System Setup And Jet Pump

log in

By log in,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

log in Collaborator

log in

Posted
Posted

Alright i couldnt find much from searching, but im about to move to a external fuel pump setup with surge tank to replace my single walbro 400lph pump. I'm looking at a fuel system capable of supporting 650-700rwhp on e85.

My idea is to use 2x044's pumping into the standard feed and return lines, then have -6 feeds from the end of the hard lines to each end of the fuel rail and have a additional -8 return line to the surge tank.

I'm interested to know what others have done with the return line from the surge tank to the main tank, is it worth upgrading to -8 hose with a bulkhead fitting on the tank to lower the restriction of returning fuel or just use an adapter into the factory return line from surge tank?

also my fuel rail has a -6 return to the fpr, is it worth modifying to -8 or is it all overkill

Also if i did use a bulkhead fitting whats the best option with the jet pump, is it necessary as it looks to be quite a restriction to a higher capacity fuel system

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443756-fuel-system-setup-and-jet-pump/
Share on other sites
Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

I'm running a very similar setup.

Lift pump into a 5 litre surge tank, twin 044's into standard feed and return, into fuel rails, -8 out of the middle to reg, -8 back to surge, -6 back to tank using the standard fitting.

Absolutely no issue. I have a fuel pressure gauge which reads from the FPR. All seems happy. Has been like that for almost 4 years.

ido09s Mentor

ido09s

Posted
Posted

I went slightly different and fitted a pair of -6 lines from the two 044 pumps to the fuel rail,-6 out of the centre of the rail to the FPR, and the largest standard line as the return to the surge.

I have contemplated a fuel cooler as it does get warm, i have a spare -10 GReddy oil cooler core, but havent got around to it.

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Is it a track only car or for street use as well? I have a Walbro lift pump and one 044 from the surge tank but its as loud as and I wouldn't want two of them. If I were doing it again (and if I were you) I would use one (or two) of the more modern pumps such as the latest Walbro Or DW pumps.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I would have thought you could make that power with what you have. The 460L e85 pumps flow 450ish kw at 13.8v, much more if you bump the voltage up. The stock lines would have done the job realistically.

If you need a surge tank for the track that's a different story, just make sure there is no raw alloy in the system, it does eventually corrode.

6an return should be fine.

044's are noisy old designs. There are much better, modern pumps up to the task for external duties when the Walbro can't keep up. Something with PWM ecu speed control built in is probably your best bet.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      Boost cut after swap(RB25DET NEO) R34

      By Kapr · Posted

      So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • Duncan
      V37 Radiator removal

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Watermouse
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Watermouse · Posted

      Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...