Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok, i know there are a few posts regarding this and its quite an old topic but through research it seems opinion is quite divided and a few comments on another post of mine have added to my curiosity. Im just wondering if i can get a few definitive answers as these cars are quite old now so some people would have had a lot of experience with them over the years now.

Ok so, as most people know, the famous brass boost restrictor inside the hose marked with the yellow band when removed apparently increases the factory boost to 1bar. Now while a lot of people have the opinion that 1bar is not safe at all others say its perfectly safe and after a comment that i have come across on other forums around the world even that the boost restrictor was placed in the hose to keep the cars horsepower output under its actual tuned potential under the 'Japanese gentlemans agreement' at the time and that the car was actually always intended to run 1bar and that the hose housing the restrictor was marked with a yellow band for the ease of locating it for removal after purchase.

Can anyone confirm whether this is the case or not? As i know they do run quite rich from factory which makes me think this is one possible reason?

Also, cars fitted with the 'nismo sports resetting' ecu's apparently increased boost to 1bar along with removal of the speed limiter. Now if this is the case, one would presume running 1bar of boost would be quite safe being a nismo option or were these ecu's maybe tuned richer again to counter the boost increase?

Would be good to get more clarification on this.

Thanks guys

Any

Also, apparentlecusports resetting

Edited by livewire

Yeah, i have no doubt the ecu will handle 1bar no problem. Im trying to get more info on the truth to the comments about the boost restrictors being placed there to decrease the power output as per the gentlemans agreement and that the gtr was infact designed to run 1bar without turbo reliability issues like a lot of people seem to think removing it causes. More than just a handful of people strongly suggest against it where some have said nismo even reset some ecu's from factory as an option i presume to run 1bar so im just trying to get clarification if anyone has a definite answer as im probably not the only one who has wondered

Yeah, i have no doubt the ecu will handle 1bar no problem. Im trying to get more info on the truth to the comments about the boost restrictors being placed there to decrease the power output as per the gentlemans agreement and that the gtr was infact designed to run 1bar without turbo reliability issues like a lot of people seem to think removing it causes. More than just a handful of people strongly suggest against it where some have said nismo even reset some ecu's from factory as an option i presume to run 1bar so im just trying to get clarification if anyone has a definite answer as im probably not the only one who has wondered

You have answered your own question.

The fact the ecu doesn't spaz out and cut the fun when the restrictions are removed goes to show nissan are cool with you pulling them out.

If they didn't want to be able to run high boost they would have had the ecu cut when it senses too much airflow.

As for whether your old turbos can handle it,that's another story.

Well no i haven't answered my question because my main questions were whether anyone can confirm whether other peoples comments I've read are correct in regards to whether they were designed and tuned to run 1bar, whether the boost restrictor was only fitted to decrease the power output from factory etc and whether that answers the question of whether the factory turbos can safely run that boost because im sure Nissan would have been quite aware of the factory turbo limits but a lot of people say no so just trying to find out whether its just a myth or not.

I never once asked whether the factory ecu can handle it or not,

Ok

I will say iy again.

The ecu runs the car correctly at 1 bar.

If nissan didn't want that they would have made it dump in heaps of fuel and pull timing like they do on other ecu's when the boost is raised.

I have seen factory 34 turbos run 300kw on 98, and 32 N1's up over 400kw in a Gibson race car. They are nowhere near their limits at 1 bar. The hassle is they are old, making the ceramic brittle. They would be fine if they had been changed at the 100,000k service like the Stagea service schedule stipulates.

Option one.

Ring nissan and ask them them for confirmation.

Option Two.

Pull restrictors and boost off into sunset like countless others before you. (Forever wondering if turbos will go bang)

Option three.

Open wallet. New turbos.

Boost off into sunset.

  • Like 1

You are all missing the point.

Dear OP.

No one on this forum (as far as I am aware) worked for Nissan in Japan between ~1986-2003 so therefore cannot give you an absolute clarification on whether or not the restrictor was put in so that GT-R's would adhere to the 'gentlemens agreement'

What everyone else IS saying is that there are many logical conclusions all pointing to the fact that, yes, GT-R'a came from the factory at quite a bit less than their potential allowed for. This gives reason to believe that yes the restrictor was indeed put it place to keep the GT-R's tamer and not break the agreement. While attempting to adhere to the agreement though, I would not say it was the sole reason for limiting the cars output, there would have been many other factors influencing that particular decision.

So, once again. Nobody on this forums can answer your question in absolute terms. Although the answer is almost certainly yes.

  • Like 1

Let me try ask it more simply.

Does anyone know whether the rumour is true that Nissan only fitted the boost restrictor to reduce horsepower as per the 'gentlemans agreement' power rating? And was designed and intended to run without it in place which is why the hose was marked with a yellow ring to make it easy to locate and remove?

I dont mean to sound like a prick but im not asking whether i should do it, im going to do it or looking to boost off into the sunset wondering if turbos will go bang. Im not asking whether the ecu is capable of running more boost etc, i just want to know whether the stories I've read about the boost restrictor have any truth to them, that's all.

Edited by livewire

Ok thanks iruvyouskyrine, that is the best response so far to what im actually asking.

Im just curious as to whether someone maybe has researched it more, maybe since 1989 has had confirmation from someone who does know or whether its nothing more than a presumption.

OP your avatar mentions you have an R34 GTR.

For what it's worth.

I have been running my 34R with original turbos (car has done 116,000km) at 1.1 bar (restrictor removed, full exhaust and Power FC) for the past year with no problems. I put 5L of oil in each service, and 5 L of oil comes out. No smoke, no loss of anything!

Will be putting on -7 (34 N1's) next month, so will report back on the condition of the turbos once I get the car back

I did own an R34 gtr and my 34 was running pretty much an identical setup to yours and same boost with no issues as i was told the R34 turbos could actually handle more boost despite still being ceramic. I had stock turbos, 720cc injectors, walbro pump, power fc, profec b boost controller, 3" front pipe back exhaust and the car was great fun and tuner said that boost on factory turbos was fine. Never had an issue anyway. -7's should add even more fun for you :-)

Im currently in the process of getting an r33 gtr so just doing some research on its limits etc

Edited by livewire

I pulled the restrict or out, and got it tuned, the tuner said it was ok, it showed no boost spike on the dyno

Drove the car at night, suddenly get boost spike every time I put my foot down, it started pingining (allot)

Then again, my mate did the same thing in his 33gtr, it's been running fine for two years, using factory ecu (then again he doe sent really drive it hard)

I suggest using a proper boost controller

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...