Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I decided after selling my 32 gtr 18 months ago I want something newer. Of course the best option was a later model GTR which is turned out to be a 2001 r34 GTR

I picked this up in Feb with a busted engine (bottom end knock) and no wheels. Engine was built, forgies, rods, cams, cam gears, haltech platinum 2000, exhaust and front pipes and a new nismo triple clutch and greddy radiator.

I have set myself a budget of 10k(ish) and 8 months to get it back on the road. Ghey stickers will go of course and the rwd rims will replaced with 18x10.5 +15's.

The original plan was for the engine tear & rebuild will happen over May/June/July and would include new turbo's (probably -5 garrett's) and a hard pipe kit and the replacement of a factory airbox for the stock look. After 270 - 300kw atw.

While its in the garage and in pieces I'll do all the maintenance stuff like rotors (maybe even a front brake upgrade), pads, boots, bushes etc and bit of an interior tidy up.

post-21836-0-30215000-1402653372_thumb.jpg

post-21836-0-29814100-1402653383_thumb.jpg

post-21836-0-18621700-1402653407_thumb.jpg

post-21836-0-33619600-1402653481_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444374-2001-r34-gtr/
Share on other sites

For rims I went with new 18x10.5 +15 enkeis and 265 Kumho KU36's.

Once we pulled the engine I decided to go a little further then I originally planned. The bores were ok but as it was apart I had it taken out to 87mm and bought new forged pistons. I had the head fully serviced and replaced every single gasket, hose etc. Its also getting a tomei sump baffle and tomei metal head gasket. Every other part is genuine nissan

I also swapped the factory turbos for brand new -9's with 16psi actuators, studs etc.

The engine is being assembled and should be running by the end of this month all going to plan.

Once its running I'll start on the small tidy up activities in the interior. its actually pretty good overall but its still a 13 yr old car.

post-21836-0-85534100-1402654423_thumb.jpg

post-21836-0-24864600-1402654458_thumb.jpg

post-21836-0-28538800-1402654472_thumb.jpg

post-21836-0-19614100-1402654483_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444374-2001-r34-gtr/#findComment-7310869
Share on other sites

Looks nice and tidy.

.... might need to Re-negotiate that budget though

yeh its going ok so far but I'm aware it can blow out. I bought the car based on a blown motor and it was priced accordingly.

If you're only going for 300kw then a set of -7 or -9s would be a better option due to a lot less lag

Yep I did :D. -9's were purchased. I went with the 9's as I understood they were a little better up in the rev range.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444374-2001-r34-gtr/#findComment-7310957
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

I had it back for a few days however it split a heater hose on the 4th drive in an awkward spot. Picking it up again on Monday.

Engine feels great, sounds good and drives nice. The cold start tune in the haltech is shithouse but once its run in I'll get it tuned properly. I also need to detail it but overall I love it. more pics once its properly cleaned up.

Managed to keep it around the planned budget on the engine except for an unexpected gearbag replacement.

post-21836-0-75861400-1411211660_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444374-2001-r34-gtr/#findComment-7393449
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...