Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My r34 rb25det neo has decided to develop a strange issue where I will be drifting and when I shift gears from 2nd to 3rd mid drift it will stall out just for a second causing it to bog down. Initially it happened rarely at the start of the night but got progressively worst as the night went on. It got the to point where clutch kicking it in 3rd (after having shifted 2nd to 3rd and had the stall out) would cause the same issue to happen again rather than for the car to start hooking up like it had done earlier in the night. I went to pits to try and find any potential air leaks or something along those lines but could not find anything and the car idles perfectly beautifully does not hunt. After being in pit for about 10 mins took it out for a run and it seemed to have no issue at all. Went for another go and the issue was back again.

Whenever I drove normally ringing out 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear there was no noticeable issue it only presented when I was drifting.

Engine mods are as follows:
Nistune
3inch turbo back exhaust
Hypergear g2.5
Bosch 550cc injectors
Oil cooler
FMIC
52mm Alum rad
Bosch 023 fuel pump
Still running recirculating BOV

I feel a likely culprit could be the fuel pump being on its way out. Does anyone think a fuel pump that's starting to run out of steam would present with these kind of issues?

Another option I was thinking was that my recirculating BOV could be leaking air out as some of the piping is a bit average and this could be a big enough difference for it to confuse the ECU as it doesn't see the air that it expected to be there.

I really wish the issue was something more obvious/severe as it seems so vague I don't really know where to start and unfortunately don't have the money to just start changing everything (crap job and going back to uni). In the end it is my daily and still drives perfect for daily duties at least at current.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444378-rb25-stalling-momentarily/
Share on other sites

Might be completely off track here but a log truck I was driving did this cut out thing. It was too quick to log a fault code so after 12 months of looking poking, trying and several trips to cummins and brown and hurley and anyone else who might know something it ended up being the fuse holder in the battery box. Pliers on the fuse holder, squeeze, insert fuse, never another problem. Maybe not the problem but I always start by shaking fuses.

Does it come off boost with gear changes and is the rpm around the 3k mark, if so the mixture could be leaning out slightly when you come back on throttle. Just a thought.

Is that based on something?

If the ecu Is tuned correctly there won't be any weird lean spots.

Unless something is not doing/ or can't do what it is being told to do.

Of course.

I just wondered because you were specific with the 3000rpms I thought perhaps you had experienced or heard about something .

Of course.

I just wondered because you were specific with the 3000rpms I thought perhaps you had experienced or heard about something .

Just mentioned it because especially in the OP's description it seems to be happening at a point where it may be transitioning off boost to on boost where if things aren't spot on a temporary lean condition may occur which is consistent with the occurrences the OP is describing. Just a suggestion anyway.

Oh and a guy with a 200 that was street driven had to add a heap of fuel in this transition area when he started drifting but it couldnt be done on the dyno, had to be done on the street.

Edited by XGTRX

Really it could be anything.

It could be reversion in the maf causing a rich conditon.

They are fussy when it comes to how the bov is plumbed back to the inlet.

Mine carries on a bit sometimes due to this, but being an auto doesn't cause problems and doesnt happen often. I am going to change the angle the bov return is attached to the inlet pipe to make it point as much towards the turbo autos possible.

How much fuel did you have?

I had this problem when the filter at the end of the fuel pump was a tiny bit higher than stock, it would get worse the lower the fuel got.

skylines and stageas suffer from a lack of fuel when throwing them around. May need a surge tank?

I have a 34gtt that does this on downshifts and especially under load, it bogs down for 3-4 seconds and loses 60% of power or even more, its that bad. I have recently found it sometimes does this on up shifts as well but only under load when shifting a bit early up an incline etc. My tuner found the map tracer cell in my power fc jumps 5 cells when it does this, pinpointing to a high voltage drop in my z32 which is possibly measuring more air from b.o.v. reversion n causing the ecu to retard timing n add more fuel. He said it is most likely my bov angle pipe causing afm reversion- not an ideal entry angle- see pic

post-49401-14028386776606_thumb.jpg

Edited by rondofj

Cheers for the tips guys. I was thinking of BOV reversion being a potential issue rondofj I guess the easiest way to suss that out would be on a dyno although seems a bit strange it only really does it when I am sliding. I have put the BOV return pretty far down the intake pipe but it doesn't point that much towards turbo which isn't good.

I don't think it is fuel surge as I feel it would be even worst when transitioning back the other way and not just grabbing a higher gear while maintaining the same slide which doesn't really slosh the fuel around much.

I've started to think it may actually be a small intake leak that opens up more on boost causing the car to run real rich on boost (Will be doing a intake pressure test soon as it's easy and free)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...