Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As much as a nistune can be fitted it is a mission into a R34, their is a thread all about doing it if you search for it ( OP, not Ben I know he knows all about it :D )

I would use the PFC for a street GTR that doesnt want Flex Fuel any day, the only problem with the PFC is as much as most every tuner can tune them, very few know how to do it properly/fully, I have a PFC in my R32 and have done so for 7 years and it drives better then it ever did with a stock computer, though it didn't when it was first fitted and tuned but then I found Scott and it has been brilliant ever since and given how fast my 32 is given its power output proves it

My 34 had a PFC in it when I bought it and it drove quiet well then I let Scott at it and again became perfect to drive and if it supported Flex Fuel it would most likely still be in there

This is my opinion, blast me all you like for it it won't change what I have seen for my self and how I feel about it, I like the PFCs and when tuned properly do exactly as they are asked with no fuss

Depends what you want to do, or how far you want to go.

Does a normal power FC have launch control, antilag, ability to run on a MAP sensor, spark cut RPM limiter and the ability to simply add extra devices through expansion ports. (not talking Jetro or Pro series Power FC)

None of which should be needed on a normal street tune GTR....but needed if your getting serious or you have $ tied into your engine.

We went with the Haltech Platinum Pro because it opens a range of future possibilities, even something as simple as the race dash pays for its self, no need for expensive gauges and mounting, warning high low limits can be set on a wide variety of things your monitoring or worried about.

Having said all that, Power FC covers what most people need day to day, good thing is they are getting cheap because newer ECU's which are in demand like the Haltech, i wouldn't hesitate to run a Power FC on a mildly worked daily driver.

  • 1 month later...

15+yo PFC or a brand new, current tech haltch that's been designed/built/developed in Aus and is very flexible?

as for just the tuning? better resolution, more options to offset timing and fuel trim etc. Same same for any competent tuner to 'use' or 'tune'.

The one thing that I would have liked in my PS2000 was knock correction, but the plug in (my pick for your application) does have knock correction.

J.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

My motor rb30/26 + t78 turbo

Wat difference will I see when using haltech platinum pro compare to power fc ?

Thx

Hope the RB30/26 setup you have with the T78 works better than my T78 worked for me on the street, it was a pig to drive as a DD and did nothing until 5000rpm

I had a worked Rb26 motor, forged pistons etc. From what was said to me, it is hard to get the T78 to come on full boost before 5000rpm, mine was later , at about 5500-6000 for full boost and rip your head off.

Maybe it was the tune, I am new to this but everything I have read so far indicated that they get full boost no earlier than 5k with an RB26 motor.

I put a PT6262 and poncams B and it was a different car tuned by the same bloke??

Maybe everyone has a different idea of lag, but mine was SO LAGGY and with the quad clutch a sh@t to drive, full load and steep hill take off, it was hell on wheels.

I do not mean doing a 6-8000rpm launch, maybe the clutch had a lot to do with it???????

Sorry off topic

  • 4 weeks later...

i owned a PFC with -5s and now changed to a Haltech with a HKS T51r yes both different turbo setups but changing from the PFC to Haltech everything seems alot smoother with the Haltech!
i do agree with the above every tuner pretty much knows how to tune Power FC but i also agree with XRATED they are designed, newer technology and you have everything there ready to go if you decide to change for a track setup or E85 or Flex tune. it also allows you to use alot of add ons as also mentions above. but to that is double the price of the PFC but, i found the PFC to feel very strange when it was cold, i cant quite describe the feelling but you can definatly notice the difference with the 2. as for a tuning perspective i dont know which one is "nicer" to tune, but thats for your tuner to work out. also choose a computer your tuner feels most comfortable to tune,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...