Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Kings do standard replacement, low and superlow. They are all in different catalogues - superlow especially.

In general the only legal ones are standard replacement and low. The superlows are almost 100% illegally low across the whole range and in general are not good for handling anyway.

I don't know about Stageas specifically, but my recent experience (as in, this month) with Kings lows for R32 Skyline is that the KDFL-101 and KDRL-102 combo (being the normal low spring for most later R chassis cars) were far too low and I had to go to the equivalent GTR springs to get the ride height correct. When I say "far too low" I'm talking ~30mm lower than legal. I do not know if this is just a manufacturing batch problem, labelling problem or what it is. The result though is that I have ~5kg/mm springs in instead of ~3 kg/mm springs, and I actually damn well like it!

I would have thought that you match the spring with the dampening of the shocks.

Yes but no. Unless you're talking about adjustable coilovers, or about adjustable dampers (Konis, KYB AGX and a few others) then what you get when you buy a damper (be it Bilstein, KYB, Monroe, Koni, whatever) is the damping that the guy at that factory thought best suited that car. Those off the shelf dampers are intended for stock springs or not much heavier than stock.

If you go buy a Kings spring, you can get either a pure stock replacement, a stock replacement with high rate (so, heavy duty) or the various lowered ones. The lowered ones have to have a higher rate than stockers simply because they're lower, so obviously that makes them the place where we all start looking. Anyway, the rates of Kings lows are not very much higher than stock springs, so when you bundle off the shelf springs with off the shelf dampers, they work OK together. Sure, they may not be the epitome of good matching or handling, but they work.

If you want to be able to match dampers to a particular spring - say you're putting really heavy stock format springs onto a car, then yes, you probably have little option to either buy fully adjustable dampers (not just rebound adjustable), or at that point you're better off looking at coilovers - just not cheap nasty coilovers. Cheap coilovers have cheap dampers....doesn't matter how many adjustments they have if their damping performance is gross.

I talk about "matching the damping to the springs" a lot in suspension threads because commonly the question is "I've bought these coilovers with 11ty bajillion kg springs and the're too stiff and I want to put some 6/4 springs on there." In some case they could get away with it (if they're starting at maybe 8/6) but then they'd probably not notice the change anyway. If the springs are like 10/8 or 12/10 like some of the Jap kits, then trying to halve the spring rates against the same dampers, even with "adjustments" in the dampers could lead to ugliness. Overdamping is not as bad as underdamping, but it's still not nice.

An alternative, if you can afford to pay someone to do it, would be to get dampers revalved to suit the springs. It's a lot of time and effort to get it right though. Look at the SK thread up the top about dampers (again, even if you already have) to see why brands like Bilstein are able to put good dampers out in the market, just from a fundamental design point off view, let alone the fact that they actually seem to care about quality of damping.

Edited by GTSBoy
  • Like 1

dont bother unless its a track only car, far too hard springs and will require re-valving if you go softer

Yeah, no. Had them, now don't. Good if you like your kidneys bruised.

Ohlins DFV then? Planning on street/track kinda ride , and maybe once in a blue moon take it on long trips.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...