Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys got my car back 96 gtr from tuners its got the following

Hks 264cams

Hksadjustable gears

Port poished head

Tripple core radiator

Hks headgasket

Power fc

16psi

Gtr 34 turbos

N1 oil pump

Nismo thermostat

The tuner said the car is fine makes healthy 273kws at 17psi with knock on ppwer fc only reaching 29

I thrashed it for couple of dayas and was fine but tonight i belted it and the fuel was really low on the indictor near E but still had fuel

Now the knock sensor jumped to 109 on full boost in 3rd and temp also got to 87 when it usuLly stays at 73 . Turned of car and turned on and drove around then thrashed it and again 109 knock but the car sounds fine and now i know the power fc detects smallest knock or vibration and my car does vibrate alot could it be motor or the ecu fault? Or maybe low on fuel? Explanations

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444511-knock-sensor-at-109-on-power-fc/
Share on other sites

Yep.

Could be due to low on fuel.

Or tune issue.

Or failing fuel pump.

Or dodgy old knock sensors playing up.

Etc

The obvious and easiest thing would be add fuel fuel and see what happens.

Of it does it again go go back to tuner and put on dyno to check check for knock to rule it out.

Edited by Ben C34

109? I reach 150 and sometimes higher after a hard flogging for say 10-15mins, back off straight away when this happens and let it cool down - tune has been massaged to goodness by Unigroup but is still not ideal for circuit work because I think timing could be high. Intercooler is fine - exit pipe is cool but crossover pipe over engine gets too hot to touch, so reckon its the heat. Pump, injectors all good. Only does it in 3rd gear and up at 6000+ rpms.

Edited by rondofj

109? I reach 150 and sometimes higher after a hard flogging for say 10-15mins, back off straight away when this happens and let it cool down - tune has been massaged to goodness by Unigroup but is still not ideal for circuit work because I think timing could be high. Intercooler is fine - exit pipe is cool but crossover pipe over engine gets too hot to touch, so reckon its the heat. Pump, injectors all good. Only does it in 3rd gear and up at 6000+ rpms.

You could insulate the intake piping to see if that makes a difference.

In theory it should but on full boost/decent RPM the air in your intake moves so f**king quickly that it doesn't have time to sit around absorbing heat

Yeh, thats what the theory is - that it moves too fast to get hot - reality is its too hot to touch after a long and decent flogging, and its not my intercooler cos the cooler-out pipe is always at outside air temp to the touch. And yes got exhaust wrap around my piping over engine bay where I could wrap it - makes huge difference to previous without. Very good mod, this.

And water spray was my previous consideration but seems this isn't really popular - was intending to go down the route Mafia did with his 33..

Yeh its bugged my only theory could be the fuel being low and it pinging but i dont know i wilfil it up and try again but i just shat

Myself

My mate told me the the power fc picks up any sort of vibration because its a crappy ecu and that it could be pickin up anything but its tru i did belt it to 6000+ in 3rd and thats the only time it went to 109 twice so im not sure what to do? The motor seemed fine though its just bugging me

a bad batch of fuel can do this also. if you can borrow or get some knock ears you'll be able to confirm if it is actual detonation. My knock reading would show 30 but knock was actually audible knock ....don't always trust the factory sensors....the sensors are not powerfc...they are factory knock sensors....the power fc is not a crappy ecu...however it is old now and there are better ones....especially from a tuning point of view.

My first motor and tune would occasionally knock up to high 90s with once going over 100... never showed high knock on dyno however.
That motor dropped a piston in a year or so...

Just sayin.

(you should really get it checked out, especially if your factory knock sensors are working fine)

Took to tuners today doesnt see a problem it might be the ecu its weird cpuld be spark plugs so i will change them tomorrow and will see how it goes i even dropped the boost Down to 14 psi and still gets to 90 so lets see if its the sparkplugs

Covered in the Pfc FAQ. Cars can knock differently on road vs on dyno as it uses different load cells. The Pfc FAQ will show you how to troubleshoot this and to use the temp IGN adjust to confirm and fix the issue

  • Like 1

my tuner said anything as high as 60 is a cause for concern and would need some ignition timing taken out,

on E85 I never saw more than 30 even with 25psi and a gt30, but still dropped a cylinder..

my advice is to be very careful, you could easily drop a cylinder, not that hard to blow a ring landing

from my experience, 3rd gear fried tyres and week later number 5 was down to 60psi

Edited by AngryRB

just a thought my gtr33 was tuned with pfc, ran perfect for about 3 months with knock of around 16-20. then for no reason started knocking to 60. called my tuner ,did the usual things, fresh fuel, checked plugs etc this didnt make it any better the last thing he told me to check was how clean the airflow meters were. they were filthy.i took them off and cleaned them with carb cleaner half a tin on each meter,let them dry and replaced them and knock back to normal give it a try for the price of a tin of cleaner, good look

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...