Jump to content
SAU Community

T51R On The Street

Rbdirty30

By Rbdirty30,
in New South Wales

 Share

Recommended Posts

Rbdirty30 Proficient

Rbdirty30

Posted
Posted

Hey guys I'm thinking about changing my turbo setup from low mount hks gtrs turbos to a single hks t51r kai, my question is what would this turbo be like to drive on the street? When would it roughly hit full boost? Would it light up four wheels once it hits full boost taking off in first and second gear? I'm asking these questions because I don't want a super laggy car or a car that is hopeless to drive from to much wheel spin, my car is a r32 gtr and my motor is a 26/30 and my head has over sized valves, port work and 280 cams with 10.5 lift. Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444805-t51r-on-the-street/
Share on other sites
r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted

Nytsky would be the best person to ask, he has a t51r on a 25/30 in an r33 gtst

The other thing to consider about is in recent times turbo technology has come leaps and bounds and there are turbos that will make t51r power with greatly reduced lag. But it's your car and you have the final say

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

Dude you have MORE THAN ENOUGH to buy something newer and nicer than that old turd burger! If you dont want a super laggy turbo then this ISN'T the turbo for you! If you think $3300 is cheap for an OLD school used turbo it isnt lol.. If you have $3300 to burn now save another $700 and get a new 6466 and manifold and gates etc. :D

JezzaR32GTR Enthusiast

JezzaR32GTR

Posted
Posted

I have a T51R on my 26, no two ways about it, it is laggy, but it does have a very rich tune on it which does not help the lag. With a decent tune it should be much better. At the moment it's hitting 25psi at around 5000rpm and holds strong all the way to 9000rpm.

Jez

Rbdirty30 Proficient

Rbdirty30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was thinking of maybe changing my gtrs turbos with twin low mounted gtx2863's, I'll be running e85 with a 30 bottom end as well. I like the idea of twins but I don't no if they'd produce the power I want

Mick_o Grand Master

Mick_o

Posted
Posted

^^^ Now ya heading in the right direction!

Forgot about the number dude its how it makes the power!

If its a street car you want best area under the curve :)

Nothing is gayer than needing to dial up 7000rpm and 1000db of RB fury to beat a V6 commodore ;)

  • Like 1
luke gtr Grand Master

luke gtr

Posted
Posted

^^^ Now ya heading in the right direction!

Forgot about the number dude its how it makes the power!

If its a street car you want best area under the curve :)

Nothing is gayer than needing to dial up 7000rpm and 1000db of RB fury to beat a V6 commodore ;)

I disagree.

Vtech is.

  • Like 1
Rbdirty30 Proficient

Rbdirty30

Posted
  • Author
Posted

The bottom end is forged je pistons with h beam rods, nitto head gasket, nitto oil pump , with all the other oil mods, 9 litre sump, balanced with a ati balancer and a direct racing twin plate clutch( top if the range) the head has double valve springs with 280 cams with 10.5 lift , 1mm oversized valves, inlet and exhaust ported, exhaust is 3.5 inch stainless with hks dump pipes and hks pulse low mount manifolds , ecu is a haltec plug in platinum pro, splitfire coil packs with a hks igniter .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By Duncan · Posted

      Ha, I've never pressed the X in all these years incase it removed the notification for all Admins
    • Duncan
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By Duncan · Posted

      I don't know, I've never done it that way, but 1. While it is an interference engine, there is still clearance between the valves and the piston at all points in the regular timing cycle 2. There is not a lot of distance before you can't catch the top of the valve stem any more I don't know if 2 is greater or less than 1. But 3. If it doesn't work out you are f**ked, engine is coming out to disassemble so it is a big bet.
    • Duncan
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Duncan · Posted

      Semi slicks are horrible for road use, just use a high performance road tyre unless you really need the maximum grip. Noisy, unpredictable (amazing, until they are not), expensive due to very high wear and not good in cold and particular wet. And yes, it is a thing to store cars on stands instead of tyres if you know they are going to be parked up long term.....but who ever realises that a short park is going to stretch into years before it is out again!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I know in Australia you'll definitely get above 30c. Parked in the shade in Summer you'll be above that. 😛 But in cooler climates, you might get that warm driving on the highway for a bit, but you'd never get to full heat temp. I'll try and find some of my historical tyre temps between Aus summer and winter (be aware immin the warmer area of Aus too.)
    • sunsetR33
      Blue/grey smoke after idle

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
×
×
  • Create New...