Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah E85 improves response but won't spool the turbo any quicker OR earlier in the rev range. ie, the turbo response characteristics are same same e85 vs ULP

It just means you can run stupid amounts of ignition timing

If I was looking to your power range I'd look at highmounting a FP HTA3582; although I think you just mentioned you've already got a twin scroll manifold and FP don't offer a TS rear housing.

yeah E85 improves response but won't spool the turbo any quicker OR earlier in the rev range. ie, the turbo response characteristics are same same e85 vs ULP

It just means you can run stupid amounts of ignition timing

If I was looking to your power range I'd look at highmounting a FP HTA3582; although I think you just mentioned you've already got a twin scroll manifold and FP don't offer a TS rear housing.

Thanks mate yeah I have a Greddy twin scroll high mount manifold already

yeah E85 improves response but won't spool the turbo any quicker OR earlier in the rev range. ie, the turbo response characteristics are same same e85 vs ULP

It just means you can run stupid amounts of ignition timing

So ignition timing has no effect on spool?

Turbo knows nothing about the ignition timing, it just knows how much exhaust energy there is - while I haven't measured it admittedly, I'd wager a cheeseburger than in terms of exhaust energy a car running 20degrees of timing on petrol will have a different amount of exhaust energy available to drive a turbo to one running E85 and 20degrees of timing at the rpm/load point. Can't overly simplify the comparison, too many variables to say too much but at the end of the day on E85 you certainly don't suddenly get a huge amount better (or worse) spool - though to drive the car it can seem that way.

in terms of exhaust energy a car running 20degrees of timing on petrol will have a different amount of exhaust energy available to drive a turbo to one running E85 and 20degrees of timing at the rpm/load point.

Agreed, and exhaust energy has an effect on spool. Then on E85 you have so much more headroom to adjust timing as against PULP, which has additional effect on spool due to a further change in exhaust energy. There are so many threads on the interwebz about timing versus spool, they can't all be wrong!

You seem to have read what I said but not fully taken it in. I am saying the picture is way bigger than just timing versus spool, they are two variables in a much bigger equation - comparing a turbo's performance between different setups makes the results less and less comparable, whether it be cams/fuel/displacement/you name it so imho you just have to take it as a general indicator against other like setups.

E85 is awesome though, regardless of if the boost curve is (or isn't) favourable with E85 the power delivery tends to be nicer - boost threshold is not the most important thing imho... that is just one part of the puzzle that provides performance.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...