Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all.

First off, RB25/30, Hypergear SS2, 20psi, E85, 45mm external gate. Car will be driven on the street semi-regularly and will do as many drift days a year as possible (probably 6-7)

I had originally planned on getting an Adaptronic and converting to MAP sensor for this build, but cash is very limited at the moment so now i am asking you guys for your advice. I already have a NIStune and a Z32 AFM, so i am thinking i may stick with that setup. I do have some questions though;

> Would a Z32 max out at 400kw on a 3 litre bottom end?

> Is there any issues running the AFM in the cooler piping?

I don't think i really need any of the features the adaptronic offers, the only thing i am unsure about if the ability of the nistune to keep the engine safe in undesirable conditions as it doesn't have any spare inputs for oil temp/pressure etc. I guess i will just have to do it the old fashioned way and keep an eye on my guages! Just trying to figure out where my money is best spent, and i think the NIStune will do the job fine provided the Z32 AFM won't be a restriction.

Thanks guys

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445084-ecu-reccomendations/
Share on other sites

Link g4+ do you wish to data log or input wideband?

The hot wire mass air flow sensors could be affected by the temps if they aren't on the suction side of the turbo from my thinking..... But others may have a proven answer

Edited by Badgaz

Nistune will get you in the road. Z32 AFM is good for more than 300kw - how much more seems to vary . There are apparently more than one type of Q45 afm and some are good for better than 400kw..

I would keep the Nistune and Z32 and save up for a better ecu such as Link/Vipec or whatever you like later.

Just to elaborate on my previous comment.

Nistune will log all ecu parameters.

In order to log more you need something else. I use a zeitronix zt2 which does wideband O2 and a heap of other inputs and Nistune picks it all up. I only use one for boost as I don't need to or care about logging others.

Look at blah blahs' s result. I think that was nudging 400rwkw not sure on the afm he used.

My understanding is that the afms have an airflow limit which roughly translates to a power limit. But on e85 you make more power for the same airflow so that power ceiling is a bit higher

According to nistune the z32s are good for 500hp (from memory) but probably a bit more on e85

The other thing is you might want a 4inch intake on that set up

Its not that the afm actually restricts airflow to create the power limit, it's due to the sensor being unable to read any more air flow.

The sensor outputs 5V (max) and then the ecu and tuner have to guess. Which isn't ideal.

Definitely will not be getting a Link G4+ as i know i don't need something that powerful for my applicaiton, and the budget is already being very stretched to cover the Adaptronic. I understand that what Ben said is correct, the AFM can only measure so much air (which translates to so much power) before reading 5v and then any extra air that does flow through is not recorded.

Was also looking at the Q45 as someone suggested, the advantage to that is its 90mm and would fit better in my intercooler piping.

I don't care about data logging, all i really need is wideband input and i am happy, which NIStune will provide.

could you put the z32 into a larger tube? i think the z32 still has better resolution than that q45.

Sort of. The sensor is part of the body so you would have to do some hacking. It would also make thing difficult as there won't be a pre existing table for voltage vs airflow.

All afm's have the same output of 0 to 5V it's just that most max of to 5V at a lower air flow.

(Not really true as some use a pulse signal but not nissan so who cares! )

Hpx make custom airflow meters that read alot of air. Matt at nistune amongst all his other work is looking at creating the neccessary tables to use them.

Edited by Ben C34

Its not that the afm actually restricts airflow to create the power limit, it's due to the sensor being unable to read any more air flow.

The sensor outputs 5V (max) and then the ecu and tuner have to guess. Which isn't ideal.

That's what I meant I didn't mean to infer that the 80mm pipe will be the power restriction

stick with the nistune and use a vh45 afm if you need the extra resolution.

use the money you save for more tyres :yes:

Just doing some research on the topic and i saw that back in 2011 you said you were running a Z32 in your cooler piping. Was it cold side or hot side? No noticeable issues?

Turbo outlet is 2.5" so the 3" Z32 is already bigger than my cooler piping. Will have to step it up to put the Z32 in there

Also i won't be running a BOV if i don't have to.

Edited by iruvyouskyrine

Use a R35 AFM in a larger tube..

food for thought:

http://www.pmas-maf.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=8217001&id=32363037

Nistune doesn't have wideband input, only uses the factory narrowband.

The wideband is read by the software on your laptop only through a serial output from your wideband controller or gauge (all in one units)

Use a R35 AFM in a larger tube..

food for thought:

http://www.pmas-maf.com/store.php#!/~/product/category=8217001&id=32363037

Nistune doesn't have wideband input, only uses the factory narrowband.

The wideband is read by the software on your laptop only through a serial output from your wideband controller or gauge (all in one units)

That looks interesting. Could just stick that in my 2.5" intercooler piping and forget about it rather than having to try and fit the Z32 in there. I am still not sure if i should put it in the hot or cold side of the piping though...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...