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Ok so a few years back I purchased a Full Race twin scroll manifold. The manifold works great and my set up has exceeded expectations.

Only problem is that when I installed it my AC compressor no longer fitted as the lines that came out of it would foul on the manifold. I asked Geoff at full race about this problem and he said the manifold wasn't designed to work with the A/C on an R32 GTR (which sucks). Apparently there is now a revised manifold which allows it to work with the AC compressor.

Now I need some help problem solving so I can fix this and have delicious air con again. I guess the questions that need to be asked are...

what makes the 32 AC compressor/mounting bracket different from the 33 and 34, does the 32 bracket make the compressor sit higher?

Can I use a 33/34 bracket with a 32 compressor?

I guess if I come to the end of the road I can have a custom bracket made up so the compressor sits lower/away from the manifold.

Maybe if your reading this Geoff you could chime in with some advice.

thanks in advance

If the 32 bracket is different then that would be unusual. I've got an RB30 A/C bracket and my original RB26 bracket and they're identical. The more likely thing would be the compressor itself as in where the pipes come out of it and where they run. Without seeing a picture of how it sits you might be able to get an A/C workshop make up new pipes. If it is the compressor can you maybe get a 33 compressor?

Finally if all of that is useless then you may be able to make a "mount extension" that links the top mounting point of the compressor to the compressor mount. Basically a thick flat 'strip' of metal on each point that would still lock it in place but rotate the top of the compressor away from the engine and potentially away from the manifold. Sorry if none of that makes sense!

I faced the same issue with the SR version of the full-race twin scroll manifold too back in 2008/09.

I had a 6061 10mm ali plate made up which bolted onto the block at the original location and then had the plate heli-coiled about 25mm lower down (from memory) to accept the compressor bracket. Obviously you will need to adjust the positioning of the bracket to suite your compressor line clearance.

I also put heat sleeve over the aircon lines too. Six years later and no issues......well except for loss of licence :whistling:

Edited by juggernaut1

Apologies for my crap picture but a bracket like this might work to drop the compressor down a bit and out a bit (provided there is room around the compressor to do this. They generally run pretty close to the chassis rail though so you would have to work around that and go down further rather than out.

The blue bit is the bracket you would get laser cut. The grey bit is supposed to be the compressor!

F6664012-DAB3-4D06-8213-126B3CC84C74.png

Obviously any such bracket has to be made so that it keeps the fore-aft position of the compressor the same as original so the belt still lines up, but otherwise it's probably the best way to achieve the goal.

Of course, moving one pump probably means moving the other (PWR steer) also.....

  • Like 1

what makes the 32 AC compressor/mounting bracket different from the 33 and 34, does the 32 bracket make the compressor sit higher?

nissan-rb20-25-26det-t-twinscroll-turbo-

R32 compressor top R33 compressor bottom

Can I use a 33/34 bracket with a 32 compressor?

Other way around, R33 compressor and lines on a R32 bracket

Pics and information from the full race website http://www.full-race.com/store/turbo-manifolds/nissan-rb20-25-26det-t-twinscroll-turbo-manifold.html

You know I've read that page I don't know how many times and I never once saw that note lol,

Must have been having a mans look.

if I can't get a hold of a 33/34 compressor for a decent price I may well make my own bracket like yours Ewan.

Judging by that pic I probably can't use my 32 lines a 33/34 compressor? :/

man u clown i had a 34 compressor in my garage with a bracket for like a year and sold it 2 months ago.. if u want to test fitment you can come take mine out of my car (its already disconnected) then you can test it, if all goes well u can buy another one

i had galvsport resolve this issue on my current build.

use some speedflow fittings to run the lines through the wheel well out of the way of the 6 boost. cost a few bucks but better than driving around in WA with no aircon

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