Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The basic diff itself (pumpkin, CW&P) will be pretty much just the same strength in all these LSD R200s. But the GTR diff is of course a mechanical LSD, which a) works and is b) rebuildable and adjustable, whereas the "standard" LSD in R33s is of course a viscous diff which is only useful for stopping your boat from rolling back down the driveway (ie stick it behind the boat trailer's tyre and forget you ever had it in the car).

Otherwise I agree that the splines are bigger and therefore stronger and the 6 bolt flanges are stronger and the CVs are stronger.

So what type is this "active diff" then?

Would it be a viscous or helical?

It would be neither. It would be a mechanical plate diff with an electro-hydraulic actuator to adjust the plate pressure.

--edit-- perhaps reading the sticky would help? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/268134-r33-gtst-active-lsd-information/

Edited by GTSBoy

It would be neither. It would be a mechanical plate diff with an electro-hydraulic actuator to adjust the plate pressure.

Are you sure? I thought is was one piece of shit apply fecal-hydraulic pressure to another different piece of shit.

Are you sure? I thought is was one piece of shit apply fecal-hydraulic pressure to another different piece of shit.

There is a whole heap of faeces, excrement, poop and shit involved in the system. And some other crap.

For your benefit GTSBoy kept it simple.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • But seriously, can we ask for the results of the "tip a bottle of metho into a nearly empty tank" experiment?
    • Hang on. Let me get this straight. The desire is to have coilovers, BC in particular, to be MORE comfortable on Sydney roads than stock suspension? Well, that's obviously not right. BCs have crude damping design at the very best, and typically hard spring rates. BC stands for Billy Cart. And then, the desire is to put in some shitty old worn out stockers, to get it blue slipped and then put the BCs back in? And then.....what? Not worry about getting pulled up by the Plod? Because you seem to have raised a worry about paying for engineering (which actually does solve all your legality problems) and still getting pulled up.... but the only problem there is that if/when that happens you have to show your paperwork at the inspection station. Whereas, if you just swap in borrowed shitty old stockers to get it slipped now, and then you get defected in the future, you have to go find more shitty old stockers then too. You course of action looks like this set of options: Buy brand new stock type dampers, and springs. probably cost a bit more than $1k all up, but will last for the remaining life of the car. Put them in, pass inspection, drive on them forever more. Hell, they could even be really nice Bilsteins and Kings or other lower&stiffer springs if you wanted. Get the car engineered as is. ~$1k. Buy new Shockworks coilvers (or MCA) and also pay for engineering. You're spending a lot more here. But these will be the best things that you could drive around on.
    • Might be worthwhile hitting up Facebook's groups, I know most of them contain terrible people and scammers - however you might be able to find someone that's in Sydney with factory suspension you could purchase and/or hire. Just do not send any form of money anywhere, in person cash only.
    • Thanks @Duncan Ride height is fine. I think it's almost stock tbh. Happy to share a pic. I don't actually have a regular mechanic as haven't lived in Sydney too long. Could you or anyone recommend any shops in Sydney?
×
×
  • Create New...