Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is a S15 Silvia with RB25DET and R33 gearbox. 8kg fr 6 kg r on softest setting. It has camber and toe arms and it doesn't have much camber.

It holds up if I floor it from a rolling start on a motorway in 2nd, but it will lose traction on back roads or where tarmac is not as good

decent setup then.

im surprised those tyres don't hook up better...

I used to have those coilovers in that spec and I found that running the rears at about 10-25% damping was the best. Something about fully soft wasn't goood and I remember the traction not being as good. THat was in an R33 though and only 240rwkw...

Edited by jjman

Mick, yes the supra will, but then the thrill being its a different car and right up there at the performance forefront, not to mention the easy power u can get outa them and the GT feel, cockpit etc, a monster that actually looks nice /sporty

Kasko I was lucky, checked ebay and a set came up at one of the skyline wreckers-think I got away with $450- a steal.. Just test the dampers by removing tops, compressing by hand and checking rebound. And f$&k those coilovers off..

Yep dunno if the SK Bilstein Whiteline kits are still around , I think he said some of the springs may not be available .

However , the SK re rated Bilsteins are and that is a good start . He said you can do a coil over conversion on them (threaded sleeves on circlips) and use small diameter springs in the right rate . Really all the bling lookin tops with spherical bearings do is give you grief on a Skyline .

Also he organised some years back an adjustable Silvia stut top that solves some of the lack of compression travel issues .

If genuinely interested I may be able to contact him , cheers A .

Yep dunno if the SK Bilstein Whiteline kits are still around , I think he said some of the springs may not be available .

However , the SK re rated Bilsteins are and that is a good start . He said you can do a coil over conversion on them (threaded sleeves on circlips) and use small diameter springs in the right rate . Really all the bling lookin tops with spherical bearings do is give you grief on a Skyline .

Also he organised some years back an adjustable Silvia stut top that solves some of the lack of compression travel issues .

If genuinely interested I may be able to contact him , cheers A .

It's not hard to contact Gary. He responds to PMs on here. I bought a set of his tricked out dampers from him only a few months ago.

I did have some trouble with springs on an R32 GTSt. The normal low Kings springs seem to be all wrong, about 35mm too low, even when the Bilsteins' perches were set on the highest groove. So I ended up with GTR springs, which is not a problem at all, as they are a higher rate than the GTSt springs anyway - right in the middle of the happy range of about 5 kg/mm.

You can of course get Eibach springs, and the coilover conversion (which costs a fair bit of money) is of course still an option.

It's not hard to contact Gary. He responds to PMs on here. I bought a set of his tricked out dampers from him only a few months ago.

I did have some trouble with springs on an R32 GTSt. The normal low Kings springs seem to be all wrong, about 35mm too low, even when the Bilsteins' perches were set on the highest groove. So I ended up with GTR springs, which is not a problem at all, as they are a higher rate than the GTSt springs anyway - right in the middle of the happy range of about 5 kg/mm.

You can of course get Eibach springs, and the coilover conversion (which costs a fair bit of money) is of course still an option.

When I bought mine originally, I had the same issue.

On the "std" (middle) setting, the whiteline lowered springs were about 30mm too low. Even on the highest circlip groove, the car still sat too low (10-15mm from memory). I ended up having more grooves machined into the shock (as recommended by SK). Car now (at its highest setting) sitts about 355mm eyebrow height on all corners but drivers front. Drivers front sits at 350mm.

Contemplating chucking stock springs back onto the bilsteins and running them at std height...

Edited by R32Abuser

When I bought mine originally, I had the same issue.

On the "std" (middle) setting, the whiteline lowered springs were about 30mm too low. Even on the highest circlip groove, the car still sat too low (10-15mm from memory). I ended up having more grooves machined into the shock (as recommended by SK). Car now (at its highest setting) sitts about 355mm eyebrow height on all corners but drivers front. Drivers front sits at 350mm.

Contemplating chucking stock springs back onto the bilsteins and running them at std height...

That was with Whiteline springs? Gary has recently said to me that he'd not heard of anyone else having this problem with either type of spring. The Kings springs are supposed to be copied from the original Whiteline design (according to Gary, who designed the Whiteline spring). I had wondered if Kings had started stuffing up the specs on the R32 springs, but maybe there has been a problem of bigger proportions.

When I bought mine originally, I had the same issue.

On the "std" (middle) setting, the whiteline lowered springs were about 30mm too low. Even on the highest circlip groove, the car still sat too low (10-15mm from memory). I ended up having more grooves machined into the shock (as recommended by SK). Car now (at its highest setting) sitts about 355mm eyebrow height on all corners but drivers front. Drivers front sits at 350mm.

Contemplating chucking stock springs back onto the bilsteins and running them at std height...

I have previously driven a well set up soarer in anger and loved the setup, bilsteins and 'stock height' King Springs.

Just a thought.

True to his name this thread is on track as a trip to whitecastle.

That was with Whiteline springs? Gary has recently said to me that he'd not heard of anyone else having this problem with either type of spring. The Kings springs are supposed to be copied from the original Whiteline design (according to Gary, who designed the Whiteline spring). I had wondered if Kings had started stuffing up the specs on the R32 springs, but maybe there has been a problem of bigger proportions.

Yup...with the whiteline springs that came in the kit.

IIRC I had a PM from gary where he explained words to the effect of..."On the std (yellow) cir clip groove, std springs will sit at OEM height (~360mm eyebrow height or there a bouts)."

The whiteline springs being the lowered type (~25mm lower than std), would make the car sit 25mm lower than OEM height on the std cir clip groove.

Hence, you would need to have a cir clip machined 25mm offset to the std. All of this is not taking into account any spring sag...

Edited by R32Abuser

Nah that can't be right. That ~350mm height is the best lowered height. The standard height is somewhat higher than that. Something like ~370mm.

Cant remember what the OEM eyebrow height is, but I know to pass regency its 360mm. 370 probably is about right now that I think about it!

Last time I asked Gary he said the Evo spec Bilsteins from some 8s and 9s are pretty good valving wise . A certain 7 is doing well with them though you do get side load problems if you use concentric lower spring seats on the front ones - which would include pretty coilovers .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...