Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

SO I have a platinum pro and are looking at going flex and stumbled across some American forums that had you can use the GM sensor, you just need to change the plug:

Use a GM flex sensor

Part # 13577394 (long tube) $66 or

Part# 13577379 (short tube)

Either buy the GM Harness and rewire Part # 13352241

or buy the plug and pins yourself

Now they look exactly the same and works out to be a lot cheaper, apparently both are 50-150hz.

Pic below.

Can anyone confirm this

HT011000

F60482058

The other side is that a guy in the states is running this sensor and instead of using a IO expander, he is using a zeitronix ethathnol gauge to convert the signal to a linear 5v signal.

He then inputs that signal into the spare AVI.

The sensor also reads fuel temp, so you use the other AVI to read the fuel temp......

I wouldn't be surprised if they are rebranded GM sensors - Their external MAP sensors (4-5 bar) which I have are "GM" ones or "Haltech" ones depending on who you ask.

I have the haltech one, and happily paid the extra to make sure it worked.

I wanted to peel the sticker off to look more 'factory' but never did it. Maybe I'll do it and see if the PN under the sticker is there/the same.

So basically this is very doable.

Zeitronix gauge is $200

GM Ethanol sesnsor and wiris $80

This issue I have run into, is that my dual widebands occupy my AVI inputs into my haltech. So looks like I will have to get the exander box regardless.

If I had the newer CAN widebands.... good to go on the flex set up I have described, as the newer dual bands use the CAN input and not the AVI slots.

You have a couple of options.. Go the Zeitronix unit and use 2xAVI's on the Haltech, but by this stage you have spent $500 and have used up 2 valuable inputs (if you have them spare - if not Haltech can mod the AVIP inputs to act as regular AVI's if you have those spare)

Haltech sells a CAN IO Expander Bundle with Flex sensor for RRP$599 (haltech part HT-059906), slightly more expensive but the IO box gives you plenty of extra IO should you need it down the track (fuel/oil/coolant pressure sensors, extra temp sensors etc). You also only use a single digital input on the Haltech to get both Ethanol Content and Fuel Temperature. :cheers:

Most ecu's can get away with using one input, ditching the fuel temp input. It would be nice to have, but surely you have one spare 0-5v input... It depends how you want the tune done, and how hard you plan to push it I guess

Personally I would just run dual maps as there is less chance of a failure. It's not like you will ever run petrol again once you convert. :P

  • 2 years later...
I have been told that gm is the only manufacturer of fuel flex sensor and any others are just rebranded gm products. 


That would be correct, but I believe continental is the manufacturer. Siemens also makes flex sensors of a different type. At the end of the day make sure you buy one from a reputable source, i bought one off ebay that was meant to be of good quality but was no good. I then got one through nistune.
  • 4 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...