Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Yeh that was the only mod, block off bov after tune - and yes they don't bloody know what the problem is lol..

Edited by rondofj

It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM

That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears

Then this.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Unblock it.

Actually, at this point, going back to the first post in thread....I want to know what Ron meant by "jumps down 5 or 6 cells". By this I mean......down as in down the screen (which is an increase in load on a PFC, yes?) or down as in less load.

And, can we see photos of the BOV return location at the turbo intake please?

BOV return looks ok for the record. I doubt given the bend in the intake pipe and the location and angle of BOV return this is causing any issues.

A lot of smack being spoken about the tuner with many of you having nfi.

My bov return was on a similar angle and caused issues untill I changed it to approx 45 degree angle pointing straight at the compressor. This made a huge improvement.

Afm's are very sensitive.

The tuner talk is obviously going to happen, seeing as the car isn't running right and they can't see why or fix it. That would be extremely frustrating for Ron.

For the record you have no idea if it has been tuned well , just the same as guys that are suggesting it could be the tunes fault don't know either. The high fuel consumption certainly suggests it's not an ideal tune in the cruise areas don't you think?

I know with the GTRs when you change from rubber intake to alloy ones with AFMs still in play they tend to get reversion even if they are exactly as per factory, something to do with the ribs in the rubber pipes regulating the air speeds

AFMs are very sensitive to even very small changes and as Ben said the return should be pointed at the compressor wheel, it helps the air circulate through the turbo to the BOV and around again instead of backing up though the AFM

A blocked BOV will give the same result as a open atom BOV as the already metered air passes back through it telling the ECU it has air going into the motor as AFMs don't know which way air is flowing only how much is passing through it

You need to get someone to watch the AFM map trace as you drive and see what it does

You need to get someone to watch the AFM map trace as you drive and see what it does

This ^^

I think we discussed this already, about a year ago... And I gave up on it. AFM's can read up to 1 volt of reverse flow.

What I don't understand is how the tuner can't work out what's going on...

My intake again - the black rubber breather hose on left from cam cover wraps under intake pipe before curling over it to the joiner/entry, courtesy of JEM's 3rd party fabricators :Dpost-49401-14072786740475_thumb.jpg

GTSBoy yes the map tracer leaps down/south towards the higher load areas- literally jumps 5-6 cells-- r&r basically

No such thing, it jumps because the ECU is interpreting load not going into R&R

Scotty, the tuner says that at that point the ecu is dumping tons of fuel and retarding the timing like a mofo, this problem is not intermittent but constant, hence he decided the afm is ok- said to look at the entry angle of the bov return, relocating afm etc- but I doubt this would solve the issue- with Nistune and same all else this problem didnt exist- he said filters in Nistune mask the problem out- Im like really..

My cars been running rough again lately with O2 feedback off- do I disconnect the O2 plug too ?? cos the powerfc is still reading the sensor voltage and its variable volts with throttle input.

Yavuz saw it jump and thats when he was convinced theres a big problem- he said that its dumping fuel n retarding timing at that point.

Yesterday I unplugged the z32 and it wouldnt even start- just cough cough and die lol

Edited by rondofj

My intake again - the black rubber breather hose on left from cam cover wraps under intake pipe before curling over it to the joiner/entry, courtesy of JEM's 3rd party fabricators :Dattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1407278665.866575.jpg

That hose looks like its not a good fit and the pipe even looks oval shaped?
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...