Jump to content
SAU Community

Power Loss On Downshifts, Bouncing Idle And Slight Hesitation At Specific Rev Point -R34Gtt


Recommended Posts

Yeh that was the only mod, block off bov after tune - and yes they don't bloody know what the problem is lol..

Edited by rondofj

It can still get reversion with the BOV blocked, when you shut the throttle the air built up by the turbo has to go somewhere and with no where else to go it goes backwards through the turbo to the AFM

That could also be causing and increasing the hesitation between gears

Then this.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Unblock it.

Actually, at this point, going back to the first post in thread....I want to know what Ron meant by "jumps down 5 or 6 cells". By this I mean......down as in down the screen (which is an increase in load on a PFC, yes?) or down as in less load.

And, can we see photos of the BOV return location at the turbo intake please?

BOV return looks ok for the record. I doubt given the bend in the intake pipe and the location and angle of BOV return this is causing any issues.

A lot of smack being spoken about the tuner with many of you having nfi.

My bov return was on a similar angle and caused issues untill I changed it to approx 45 degree angle pointing straight at the compressor. This made a huge improvement.

Afm's are very sensitive.

The tuner talk is obviously going to happen, seeing as the car isn't running right and they can't see why or fix it. That would be extremely frustrating for Ron.

For the record you have no idea if it has been tuned well , just the same as guys that are suggesting it could be the tunes fault don't know either. The high fuel consumption certainly suggests it's not an ideal tune in the cruise areas don't you think?

I know with the GTRs when you change from rubber intake to alloy ones with AFMs still in play they tend to get reversion even if they are exactly as per factory, something to do with the ribs in the rubber pipes regulating the air speeds

AFMs are very sensitive to even very small changes and as Ben said the return should be pointed at the compressor wheel, it helps the air circulate through the turbo to the BOV and around again instead of backing up though the AFM

A blocked BOV will give the same result as a open atom BOV as the already metered air passes back through it telling the ECU it has air going into the motor as AFMs don't know which way air is flowing only how much is passing through it

You need to get someone to watch the AFM map trace as you drive and see what it does

You need to get someone to watch the AFM map trace as you drive and see what it does

This ^^

I think we discussed this already, about a year ago... And I gave up on it. AFM's can read up to 1 volt of reverse flow.

What I don't understand is how the tuner can't work out what's going on...

My intake again - the black rubber breather hose on left from cam cover wraps under intake pipe before curling over it to the joiner/entry, courtesy of JEM's 3rd party fabricators :Dpost-49401-14072786740475_thumb.jpg

GTSBoy yes the map tracer leaps down/south towards the higher load areas- literally jumps 5-6 cells-- r&r basically

No such thing, it jumps because the ECU is interpreting load not going into R&R

Scotty, the tuner says that at that point the ecu is dumping tons of fuel and retarding the timing like a mofo, this problem is not intermittent but constant, hence he decided the afm is ok- said to look at the entry angle of the bov return, relocating afm etc- but I doubt this would solve the issue- with Nistune and same all else this problem didnt exist- he said filters in Nistune mask the problem out- Im like really..

My cars been running rough again lately with O2 feedback off- do I disconnect the O2 plug too ?? cos the powerfc is still reading the sensor voltage and its variable volts with throttle input.

Yavuz saw it jump and thats when he was convinced theres a big problem- he said that its dumping fuel n retarding timing at that point.

Yesterday I unplugged the z32 and it wouldnt even start- just cough cough and die lol

Edited by rondofj

My intake again - the black rubber breather hose on left from cam cover wraps under intake pipe before curling over it to the joiner/entry, courtesy of JEM's 3rd party fabricators :Dattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1407278665.866575.jpg

That hose looks like its not a good fit and the pipe even looks oval shaped?
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...