Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Within a fully secure underground complex car park some prick has used what looks like a pick and hammer to try bust my lock out or a screwdriver. They never got into my car but the lock is completely totally destroyed.

I have an alarm, immobiliser and steering wheel lock that is always in a hard-lock position when parked.

Is there any way i can just replace the key hole with a metal plate or replace with a keyless entry door handle? This is the 3rd time - 1st in Newcastle, 2nd in Brisbane, 3rd now in Melbourne someone has tried to break the key/lock to get into my car..

Anyone got suggestions? Otherwise im over this car im selling it next week..

post-135908-0-34788700-1407559584_thumb.jpg

Unless it was your own personal lock up garage that only you have the remote/key for, I wouldn't assume it's "fully secure"... even if you had your own garage, nothing is ever secure. Anyone who can gain entry to the basement car park can physically get to your car.

R33 yeah.

Since i have alarm, immobiliser and steering lock fitted ive just removed the barrel key lock from the handle, covered it with a metal plate, painted it same colour as car. Only way they can get in now is smashing window or stealing my keys..

Hate these maggots.

Just FYI you don't need to smash the window to get into an R33. The windows have enough flex in them to pry away and get a coat hanger in there to flick the lock.
It's how my previous 33 was stolen, and also how RACV get in when keys are locked inside.

Passenger door?

disconnceted the locks on passenger door now too - its fully keyless entry.

f**ked if my battery goes flat, but at least less a chance of these maggots stealing my car.. i hope.

  • Like 1

haha fyi the r33 door unlock trick was covered about 9 yeas ago from memory

there was a how-to thread on how to disable it as well in the tutorial section, very old news

  • Like 2

haha fyi the r33 door unlock trick was covered about 9 yeas ago from memory

there was a how-to thread on how to disable it as well in the tutorial section, very old news

What is the trick? just jam a screwdriver in and turn it?

So they had another go last night, now passenger door lock is ruined, drivers side door lock even more so than last week and now they jimmied the window scratching the f**k outta my window and ripping the rubber seals to pieces...

AGAIN didnt get in.. There goes about $500 replacing the seals and locks. :(

Getting really tired if your shit junky thieves.

wow.... that's no longer opportunistic dude, that's targeted at your car... I would either sell it or move it to a new location. Does your 'secure' carpark have CCTV? Have they audited the swipe access at all entry and egress points?

^^^ Good one mate now it's everyone's information. Hell of a lot of captains about to set sail!!

Old news. You can sometimes tell if an R33 has been broken into because the metal/trim above the window is creased from being pried open.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...