Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I live over in Vancouver Canada and wanted to share with you my 1998 R34 GTT coupe.

Its been in hiding for a bit, but finally parts arrived, repairs and routine maintenance were taken care of, and back to inspection the car went. This time it passed perfectly, not a thing needed, and not an issue was made with the car.

The car came over in pretty good condition, was a grade 4. I spent about 3 days bringing the shine back into the paint, cleaning up emblems, door jams, under the hood etc.
at home waiting....for monthssss
IMG_8415_zps95038d36.jpg
repairs done, maintenance complete, time for alignment....
20140726_152451_zps399b24ae.jpg
20140726_1525321_zps06c580f0.jpg
inspection time, but first some pics of the new brakes
20140726_1720311_zpsf7729fb2.jpg
20140729_160342_zps2e33cd67.jpg
inspection passed, no plate yet, storage insurance for now.
20140729_160412_zps8c582b70.jpg
20140729_160404_zps72b1c85f.jpg
20140729_1603501_zpsdadacd12.jpg
Fully insured and legal, went for a nice drive through the mountains, such a pleasure to drive this car.
20140809_200015_zpscfecf4d3.jpg
20140809_195821_zps9ddfb5da.jpg
20140809_195803_zps8b799d2e.jpg
20140809_195854_zps91b28ce3.jpg
As for mods go the car is very stock, only mod it had was a HKS 3" high power cat back when I got it. But since I had to do a couple repairs I upgraded things while I was at it.
The car now has BC Racing 30 way adjustabe coilovers, stage 3 clutch, splitfire coilpacks, drilled+slotted rotors, 18X8 in the front and 18x10 in the rear (OZ racing 3 piece)
The motor was compression tested and leak down tested here Canada couple months ago, numbers came back really good 175-180 all cylinders, and there was pretty much no percentage of pressure change in the leak down either (very happy to have a healthy motor)
Most likely I will grab a tune shortly, a nistune one. But first I might go ahead and get a intake, intercooler, and open up that downpipe and remaining exhaust.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447040-canadian-bacon-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day..

When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw :) Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

Nice car you will be very happy with a Nistune I got one and it was the best money I ever spent should be able to push the standard turbo up to 12psi. This thing would be a handful in them Canadian winters.

Nistune is on order should be here in a couple weeks :)

Our winters can be sketchy, but the R34 wont see any rain or snow, it will be stored.

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day..

When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw :) Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

we do have E85 over here, a place opened up last week that is selling it now!

Good plan. That + Nistune + boost controller = 200rwkw on premium unleaded, assuming you've got a high flow cat and cat back exhaust.

For E85 you'll probably have do injectors and fuel pump too (go big enough to support later mods) that will give you another 30rwkw or so.

they are, thats not camber though, thats a lack of.

do you not like the look of camber in the shot or that the wheels are a low offset?
(not a good or bad thing, just not sure what your refereing to)

Lower it and i recon the might squeeze in the gaurds, albiet needing maby a guard roll. will look good. but needs to be closer to the floor.

Edited by GH05T

Its just that I am old and cynical and reckon wheels & tyres should be designed to make the car go/turn/stop and not for stance/fitment. If you are setting cambers to make the tyre fit to my addled brain you are doing it the wrong way around. Equally it is out past the guard then it doesn't fit either. But as I said I am old and jaded so each to their own.

the wheels in the rear poke out a bit yes

But funny we are on this topic, I got the all the guards rolled today! I will get around to lowering the car back down now....it was up high because of our out of province inspection laws the car must pass to be road legal here in Canada.

If the wheels in the rear end up being to tight to the guards I can always take off the hub centric wheel spacers....

I will post new pics of the changes soon :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...