Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey everyone, I live over in Vancouver Canada and wanted to share with you my 1998 R34 GTT coupe.

Its been in hiding for a bit, but finally parts arrived, repairs and routine maintenance were taken care of, and back to inspection the car went. This time it passed perfectly, not a thing needed, and not an issue was made with the car.

The car came over in pretty good condition, was a grade 4. I spent about 3 days bringing the shine back into the paint, cleaning up emblems, door jams, under the hood etc.
at home waiting....for monthssss
IMG_8415_zps95038d36.jpg
repairs done, maintenance complete, time for alignment....
20140726_152451_zps399b24ae.jpg
20140726_1525321_zps06c580f0.jpg
inspection time, but first some pics of the new brakes
20140726_1720311_zpsf7729fb2.jpg
20140729_160342_zps2e33cd67.jpg
inspection passed, no plate yet, storage insurance for now.
20140729_160412_zps8c582b70.jpg
20140729_160404_zps72b1c85f.jpg
20140729_1603501_zpsdadacd12.jpg
Fully insured and legal, went for a nice drive through the mountains, such a pleasure to drive this car.
20140809_200015_zpscfecf4d3.jpg
20140809_195821_zps9ddfb5da.jpg
20140809_195803_zps8b799d2e.jpg
20140809_195854_zps91b28ce3.jpg
As for mods go the car is very stock, only mod it had was a HKS 3" high power cat back when I got it. But since I had to do a couple repairs I upgraded things while I was at it.
The car now has BC Racing 30 way adjustabe coilovers, stage 3 clutch, splitfire coilpacks, drilled+slotted rotors, 18X8 in the front and 18x10 in the rear (OZ racing 3 piece)
The motor was compression tested and leak down tested here Canada couple months ago, numbers came back really good 175-180 all cylinders, and there was pretty much no percentage of pressure change in the leak down either (very happy to have a healthy motor)
Most likely I will grab a tune shortly, a nistune one. But first I might go ahead and get a intake, intercooler, and open up that downpipe and remaining exhaust.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/447040-canadian-bacon-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day..

When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw :) Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

Nice car you will be very happy with a Nistune I got one and it was the best money I ever spent should be able to push the standard turbo up to 12psi. This thing would be a handful in them Canadian winters.

Nistune is on order should be here in a couple weeks :)

Our winters can be sketchy, but the R34 wont see any rain or snow, it will be stored.

Very nice, well done! Pics remind me again that I totally have to visit Canada one day..

When you're done with the first batch of mods a high flow is a good next level option, should get you up to around 250rwkw :) Do you guys have access to E85 or similar over there?

we do have E85 over here, a place opened up last week that is selling it now!

Good plan. That + Nistune + boost controller = 200rwkw on premium unleaded, assuming you've got a high flow cat and cat back exhaust.

For E85 you'll probably have do injectors and fuel pump too (go big enough to support later mods) that will give you another 30rwkw or so.

they are, thats not camber though, thats a lack of.

do you not like the look of camber in the shot or that the wheels are a low offset?
(not a good or bad thing, just not sure what your refereing to)

Lower it and i recon the might squeeze in the gaurds, albiet needing maby a guard roll. will look good. but needs to be closer to the floor.

Edited by GH05T

Its just that I am old and cynical and reckon wheels & tyres should be designed to make the car go/turn/stop and not for stance/fitment. If you are setting cambers to make the tyre fit to my addled brain you are doing it the wrong way around. Equally it is out past the guard then it doesn't fit either. But as I said I am old and jaded so each to their own.

the wheels in the rear poke out a bit yes

But funny we are on this topic, I got the all the guards rolled today! I will get around to lowering the car back down now....it was up high because of our out of province inspection laws the car must pass to be road legal here in Canada.

If the wheels in the rear end up being to tight to the guards I can always take off the hub centric wheel spacers....

I will post new pics of the changes soon :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...