Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Thought we could start a thread where people rate what products they use as they go, get more of a feel for how things cope over time and how people really rate them.

This can be anything from waxes ( i know there is already a thread for waxes but this is for everything) to tools used and even the types of buffers people use.

I'll start off with my new purchase that i have been testing:

Monza Pro Detailing Brushes:

$(KGrHqNHJEQFC1GVcur2BQ)6e7ROOw~~60_35.J

Amazing for cleaning the engine bay and the hard to get places. I cannot really stress how helpful these have been both inside the car and out. I would seriously rate these 9/10 and highly recommend them to anyone that is as OCD as me when it comes to cleaning. I got mine for around $50 for the set of 5 and 100% worth the price.

The next one is my old wax meguiars nxt gen tech wax 2.0

7110105_mgr_G12718_pri_larg.jpg

The depth this wax leaves is amazing. Probably one of the best i have used for photo shoots. However it doesn't last overly long compared to others. I would rate this at probably a 6/10. GREAT if you are about to do a photo shoot or take it to a car show (i still use it for this). But for everyday wax i would recommend something else.

Edited by Anfanee

Next is probably my favorite Meguiars product:

Ze window cleaner:

large_aa6316_1_.jpg

Overall i can't complain it does a bloody good job of cleaning windows and glass. Doesn't leave any smear marks and does buff off extremely easily. Though some would argue glass cleaner isn't needed so it isn't an "essential" item in my kit. I do use it every weekend cleaning my car. Bonus point for smelling like Grape hubba bubba bubblegum (Legit it smells amazing). 7/10

And yes i do quite like my meguiars stuff.

Good idea Anf

I too am a Meguiars man

Have to say the my favorite products are as follows:

Meguiars Scratch X

ScratchX-Tip_zps6986d6e0.jpg

this stuff is great to remove them surface sratches and swirls

recently applied on this panel

IMG_1728_zpse95bcc78.jpg

all them swirl marks and cobwebs - the car is riddled with them

IMG_1738_zps2aff0ee6.jpg

I used the supplied applicator pad in this case and did it by hand to remove the swirl marks and then gave it a quick wax - highly recommend it even for some deeper surface scratches its a great product 9/10

Product #3 my new wax:

2740_lg.jpg

Lasts aaages on my car and gives a really hard wax feel. Definitely protects the car more than the nxt gen 2.0. Very easy to apply and buff off. I do it by hand with ease.

However it does not give the depth in the paint like the nxt gen 2.0 does. It just doesn't look as "fancy" i suppose? Do highly rate it but a few marks off for not giving that depth to the paint 7 or 8/10

I must ask, what does everyone use for White cars? Mine cleans up well after a wash but I would like to take it to the next level of shine!

I use concours drift coat wax on my white car it brings out a good shine and is easy to apply can even apply to wet car, but you white being a solid colour you will never be able to get the shine of a metallic car that has been detailed. Here is how the product looks on my white car.

http://www.waxit.com.au/products/concours-driftcoat-wax-280g

In regards to cut and polish I use the schols concept s3 for cut and schols s30+ for final polish

post-50426-0-62303200-1408833300_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-93430200-1408833331_thumb.jpg

post-50426-0-43211900-1408833412_thumb.jpg

Edited by boostn0199

My collection

attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1408876498.579147.jpg

Also new addition to the collection

attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1408876644.963208.jpg

Can't wait to try it out

That's the sponge I use ants. Easily the best one I have found.

next review:

Meguiars quick clay kit

wm_item_1277366871_G111.jpg

Must have for all people who are as anal as me when it comes to cleaning. I have used this kit for years and i have never been able to fault it. It is easy to use and easy to remove the residue. It's quite shocking as to how much dirt this kit picks up 2 minutes after you have washed it. So far i have not been able to fault this kit at all. Probably the only detailing product i own that i can 100% rate at 10/10 i love this product!

  • Like 1

Collinite476S.jpg

This is probably my favorite wax right now. Lasts for 6 months on a daily driver (sometimes more), gives a very nice glassy wet look, specially on dark metallic colours, easy to apply and easy to remove. The water beading from this stuff is excellent as well. The best bit, its only around 35 bucks, so one of the cheapest products out there.

The only thing to keep in mind is, this stuff must be applied in a really thin coat. If you cake it on, it will be a b*tch to remove. But, thin coats mean the tin will last much longer. Some people also complain about the smell, but I don't mind it. 10/10 for me

Thanks Junkie! Might have to have a look at that ^^

I went back to my old wax the meguiars nxt gen 2.0 and it definately works better with my paint.

Got any pics with the above?

Next review:

A Bucket

bucket.gif

Hols water and Car wash, should be used with some sort of sponge. Only Downside is you have to lug it around. 9/10. This is a must have in any detailing kit.

On a serious Note....

Meguiars Nxt Gen Car Wash

meguiars-nxt-generation-car-wash-1982ml.

Great Stuff. Feels very soft going on and goes on with ease. Doesn't leave streaks and is easy to wash off. Great value too i have been using mine for aaages and still have half a container. It could be a little better at cleaning the area around the exhaust. 8/10

Next review:

A Bucket

bucket.gif

Hols water and Car wash, should be used with some sort of sponge. Only Downside is you have to lug it around. 9/10. This is a must have in any detailing kit.

I loled

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...