Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No. Not true. Simply because the engine would have to built with stratospheric static compression and lots of boost to have a hope of needing all the knock resistance of normal E85 anyway. Not more than 0.01% of engines running around on E85 would be built even half that hard.

Marketing and profit margin. There is so little hydrocarbon in E85 that the marginal cost difference to the supplier is only about 15% of the marginal cost difference between 91 and P98. Yet they can probably charge ALL of the retail price difference between 91 and P98 when applying the marketing spin to E85 and 107octane E85. 6 times the extra profit makes it worth refining a little extra P98 to go into it.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Maybe the theory of "under octane" ULP in the E85 is not a theory and they prefer to use a more highly refined dino like 98ULP .

I think ultimately E85 or similar is only ever going to get mainstream acceptance when you can prove to people that it works consumption wise , and to achieve that you need engines with high compression ratios . How you get around NOx emissions I don't know but I have read that direct injection engines gain more from evaporative in cylinder cooling so the higher a fuels octane the better assuming it doesn't get harder to light off like high octane petrol does .

A .

so just a bit of an up date on using the green 107 octane.

tested it and has the same ethanol content, so in the tank it goes.

Went for a 10 minute drive and parked up.

Started it up and it now runs like crap.....

Maybe, probably a coincidence..... but yeh..... my car didnt like it very much....

Also ive eliminated most other possible causes of my car running like crap, dosnt mean it is the fuel though.

It's not an issueswapping between tge two fuels. If the car is tuned right it should be able to go from 70 to 90% ethanol without any damage even at a track on either 105 or 107 . It comes down to knowing what you are running % wise whilst tuning and factoring in possible changes.

  • Like 1

I have found 107 needs a different coldstart map to the normal stuff. Aside from that havnt found much difference at all (will do back to back testing on a dyno in afew weeks). Was the same starting problem on 3 different cars when tuned on normal e85 then run on 107 (107 only recently became available at my local).

Yep I was having starting issues and got sick of the increased consumption .

My local EFlex servo is getting cheap ATM so that's what I'll stock up on . Starts are much better but need to get finger out and retune the cold and hot starts because they've gotten really rich .

$1.16.9/L acceptable , cheers A .

  • 7 months later...

Current brew is a 50/50 mix of E85 Lime and 98ULP . My engine was getting rough on E70 and I was beginning to wonder about the gum gunge some people get on their injector tips when using high eth fuels . I did use that ethanol fuel conditioner for a time but ultimately it didn't change the rough running much .

I started blending more ULP into the Eflex to get acceptable consumption and picked up 30L of green E85 for a 50/50 mix - as easy as splash blending gets .

Results look pretty good so far with power and general consumption . I suppose the octane would be around 102-103 which isn't far short of the old E85 but 57% of the fuel is now PULP which gives better consumption than 85% ethyl alcohol .

The down side is that Uniteds Green gut rot is a bit exy .

A .

Interesting discussion. I find it interesting that people are getting higher consumption from the 107 as well. My car was tuned on the 107 and I get very slightly better economy when I use it vs EFlex, granted I'm talking maybe 20-30ks per tank more, certainly not enough to offset the higher costs of united.

The car also feels the tiniest bit more responsive on the extremely low rpm as well with the united, like before around 2000rpm it seems smoother to take off from the lights or whatever. No idea if there is a reason for that or if its in my head.

Either way I just fill up with whatever I'm closest to when I need fuel, doesn't make much difference except price

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You’ll be very upset when you bust that too not to mention the gearing totally sucks. Don’t do it.
    • Is the panel filter one that is oiled? Have you ever cleaned or touched the AFM?
    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
×
×
  • Create New...