Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

So I fitted a pair of new Garrett -9 turbos to my R34 GT-R (new genuine gaskets/washers etc) and once I put it all back together & fluids back in I noticed I had coolant leaking from my rear turbo Eye bolt water line. Here a pic of what I mean:

IMG_20140830_00179.jpg

Then I remembered that I had forgotten the special note on the R32 GT-R workshop manual (couldnt find R34 GT-R's but should be the same?) that stated:

Turbo_removal_03.jpg

I only now realised this is to make it easier to fit the eye bolt without damaging the copper crush washers etc. Naturally I'm like FFS! >,<

Anyhoo long story short I got new/genuine copper crush washers and followed the above instruction and re-fitted eye bolt & both washers (easier now that it was loose). Confident that it should be right now I added coolant and bam - its still leaking!! :(

So my question to you guys now is have I f#cked up the threaded connection of the eye bolt to turbo?? Ie - the Eye bolt thread looked fine but Im thinking the mating side?
Confused as to what it could be now :(

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Edited by xanavinismo

If you have both copper washers fitted and have done it up tight enough, and its still leaking, then i would be checking for a crack in the pipe somewhere. copper washers aren't that fragile. are both mating surfaces for the copper washers clean?

Thanks for replies guys, i'll give both mating surfaces a look.

So if it is in fact that one (or both) mating surfaces are damaged, what is the best way of going about 'cleaning' them?

Cheers,

Edited by xanavinismo

if you have a buff gun that is the easiest way to do it. You basically want a nice smooth surface with no gouges/scratches etc

check the steel line doesnt have any cracks as well if I havent already said that

Haha yeah unfortunately I dont have one :( So i'll more then likely have to go the file & honing stone method. Though where can I get these honing stones? Never heard of it =P

And yes i'll also look for any physical cracks on the pipe too when I pull it apart...

Haha yeah unfortunately I dont have one :( So i'll more then likely have to go the file & honing stone method. Though where can I get these honing stones? Never heard of it =P

And yes i'll also look for any physical cracks on the pipe too when I pull it apart...

Any tool shop or probably bunnings. Get a "pocket stone" they are about 60x20x12mmm and are very handy for tidying up faces. Also use full for sharpening knives etc.

Okay kool, will give it a look.

Also is it safe to say that it doesnt take much to damage both mating surfaces? Ie - from trying to force the water line onto the turbo mounting point, & also rubbing against copper washer?

Yeah fair enough man

Okay so heres pics of the water line...
IMG_20140905_00192.jpg IMG_20140905_00194.jpg IMG_20140905_00195.jpg IMG_20140905_00196.jpg

So as you can see rough as hell!

Now heres pics of the mounting point (on turbo side)

IMG_20140905_00184.jpg IMG_20140905_00185.jpg IMG_20140905_00187.jpg IMG_20140905_00191.jpg

Now from what I could see, it doesnt look anywhere near like the water line and could in fact be okay :)

Please let me know what you guys think?

Cheers,

It is very likely that the turbo side is ok. The lines are quite soft.

You can easily file then stone that damage out, or just replace it.

Edited by Ben C34

Depends what file and how good you are with a file doesn't it!

But fair call, a beginner with a bastard file could make a real mess of it.

Edited by Ben C34

The fine side of the sharpening stone will do, just make sure you do it square taking an even amount off all round, to much one side or the other or it will leak

You are doing it up tight enough yeah ?

I'm with Callan on this one, its worth it to get a new one for piece of mind

I am happy to report that its all bolted up now and there are no more leaks! (so far :) )

So yes the filing & pocket stone method has worked!

Thanks so much for the info & help guys!

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...