Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

It is with great disappointment i have to ask this question.

RB25 Neo head on RB30 block. Head was welded for VCT and decked flat. Block was scraped with a razor blade to get everything off and then cleaned using WD40 and brake cleaner to ensure a clean surface. I did not check block straightness at all with a steel rule etc. Using an RB25 Cometic Multi layer metal head gasket and RB25 ARP head studs torqued to ARP specs (80 ft/lb)

Oil is weeping from between the head and the block on the passenger side at the very front of the engine. Compression test on cylinder 1 shows 170psi and oil pressure at cold idle is 70psi, using a 10W-40 oil. The oil leaks very slowly but enough to be noticeable as a mark on the ground. Even once then engine has been shut down it will continue to leak for maybe 15 minutes, which i guess it only stops when all the oil has drained from the head.

I'm guessing that the block just isn't straight enough to get a good seal with the metal head gasket? I guess my options are take the head off and replace with a standard nissan fibrous gasket, or spray some hylomar (not sure exactly which one to use, the blue spray or the copper?) on the gasket and put it back on?

paCh2fp.jpg

Video attatched below of issue.

Oh that sucks :(

Are you sure its coming from the HG and not the cam seal and running around the HG

Even hylomar can only do so much and if the block isn't straight then that needs to be fixed to guarantee a good seal which would unfortunately mean having the block decked

Yeah I'm pretty positive that's where it's coming from. Block was removed from a running car with no oil leak issues so thought I would just be able to use Nissan gasket. :/

I would have expected a head gasket oil leak to come from the right side so I'm also leaning to a leaky cam seal.

Here's a photo of my 32's exhaust cam which made quite a mess. Previous owner had decided to replace cam seals and had done a poor effort.

Oil travelled a long way and it was hard to track where it originated, belt etc stayed clean as the oil leaks between the rear cam belt cover and the block.

post-73571-0-93685500-1410667195_thumb.jpg

I replaced the cam seals with brand new Nissan items before I put the engine in. It is very hard to track where the leak is with the cam backing plate on but I am very confident it's not from the cam seal (unfortunately)

It might be a long shot, but since It's been heat cycled, I would re-torque the head before pulling it down. Did you use the supplied ARP lube while torquing the head in sequence, or engine or similar? Maybe try another torque wrench?

Sucks to hear man, hope it works out for you.

Yeah I had the cam gears off only 3 days ago and there did not look to be any evidence of oil leaking from the seals. Will inspect before taking the head off though.

I agree it's unlikely that it's leaking oil from there, but as I said there is no oil above there or any oil from behind the cam backing plate (that I can see), have cleaned it multiple times and it only seems to be coming from where you can see in the video :/

Yep used arp moly lube in all studs and nuts torqued in correct sequence to ARP specs (80 ft/lb). Used my torque wrench which has hardly been used (done flywheel bolts 3 times and 2 sets of head studs)

Only thing with that is my 13mm deep socket just touches the cams when torquing them up. Some of the pressure I am applying would be applied to the cams not the nuts but I don't think it would be too much, it barely touches them.

Alright. I tried putting liquid gasket in where it was leaking to see if it would run down the front if it so I could see if it was coming from the cam seal or not. None run down the front but it did come out of between the head and the block just further down the engine where I didn't put liquid gasket. So I'm now almost positive it's not the cam seal. :( still the cam gears and backing plate coming off tomorrow night for inspection.

Am I able/should I also give a standard Nissan headgasket a spray with hylomar? Just for that extra sealing?

I'm about ready to set this thing alight if it leaks again.

2 things.

1) Check your torque wrench. Put it on a nut (like a wheelnut) so it sits horizontal and hang a known load from it. You can work out the torque from a known mass easily enough. All you need is mass, 9.807 and the length of the lever arm between pivot centre and the load point,

2) Having done that, use it to torque the head bolts up again.

my car leaked from there and it came from the cam seals. don't rule out coincidence!

I pulled the rocker cover gaskets off twice and replaced the VCT drain once and finally realised it was the cam seals.

Unsure how the cam seals were initially installed, but both front cam bearings are important.

Their front sections need a wipe of 3-bond to stop oil weeping between the cam cap and the head.

This is easiest to do by first installing the cam with all caps, then removing the front cap to apply the sealant, and then finally torquing down all the caps.

It has to be done carefully so the seal oil drain back hole isn't blocked.

I also give the outers of the seals a very light wipe of 3-bond as they're only a light push fit.

As the head was re-built I presume the actual seal surfaces were tidied up.

I used grease on the cam seals (as recommended by my mechanic mate) and was considering using liquid gasket on the cam caps but didn't.

There is 3 points at which oil drains into behind the cam seal, one in the head itself and 2 little holes either side of the cam cap. So you are saying I should liquid gasket everywhere around the cap but not where those drain holes are?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...