Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Oil Catcher Plumbed Wrong? Not Catching Oil

KrazyTurk

By KrazyTurk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
Posted

iv had cases of oil leaks before but asumed it was leaking from the oil catcher though i did get that replaced

now i noticed theres still leaks but its not coming from the catcher but from some sort of filter under the pod i think its a breather ?

iv attached a picture of how my catchcan settup is and where the leaking is from (brown shading represents oil leaks)

http://i.imgur.com/P3jxTH7.png

the catchcan itself seems literally empty

my question is why isnt the catchcan catching the oil? but passing down through the breather

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

The oil catch can doesn't catch the oil because it doesn't see any blow-by gases through it.

The catch can shall be between the rocker cover and the breather/intake pipe.

As is your catch can is totally useless.

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ah i see this whole thing is plumbed incorrectly then and despite the several mechanics i went to about it didnt mention anything

even though the breather is before the catchcan wouldn't the can at least catch something other side of rocker cover?

i have a feeling the can might be installed incorrectly by the mechanic too lol

just figured that the breather/filter i was confused about was there to vent gases/oil to atmosphere instead of the intake

Edited by KrazyTurk
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Yep that's a fairly retarded way to plumb in the catch can. It would only catch what's coming out of the inlet cam cover

How much is coming out anyway? A healthy engine none should come out.

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That means two things

1 your engine is tired.

2 your catch can sucks. It should be baffled.

Actually it doesn't necessarily mean 2 until such time as he sets the plumbing up properly and then oil still comes out the vent.

OP......you need the catch can to be in the path between the engine and the vent. Merge the two hoses from the cam covers together and hook them to one connection on the catch can. Connect the vent to the other port on the catch can. Run it and report back. If the can works, then there will be oil in it. If the can doesn't work (per Ben's suggestion above) then there will be oil in it and oil outside it!

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

worth noting that the filter/breather is a bad idea. Hook it up to the turbo intake.

1. It's illegal

2. the filter material will become soaked in oil and drip. also it's a fire hazard

3. Supposedly exposing the crank case to vacuum from the turbo will help keep the rings on their seats with a worn engine. I don't know how true this is.

4. Also if you've got blowby, and I assume you do. then boost is escaping from the combustion chamber into the crankcase where it is venting to atmosphere. typically you want this to recirculate to the turbo's inlet. I'm not sure if this would affect AFR's though

Anyway, hook up the catch can between the rocker covers and the compressor inlet. That should allow you to tick all the boxes of legality while keeping oil out of your intake

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

so i hooked everything up correctly and now noticed smoke coming out from exhaust pipe?

Ok that indicates that oil fumes are getting though the catch can so you need to baffle the catch can and/or put an air/oil seperator (could be another baffled catch can) into the line from the catch can to the turbo intake. If there is masses of oil coming out at WOT refer to the oil control thread for more answers.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

When you say hooked it properly most people would take that as you hooked it up the proper way, with the catch can venting back to the inlet.

Are you sure it's hooked up properly at the moment?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That's not hooked up properly. That filter on the far right.....shouldn't be there. That hose should be hooked up to the turbo inlet pipe, so that the air that flows through the catch can into the engine has been through the AFM. We explained all that already.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

It's a shame even after being told how to do it you still do it wrong, and are adamant that it's correct.

It's wrong.

Simple as that. If you don't understand that's cool, get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By Kapr · Posted

      The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Duncan
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...