Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gts-T/4 Unresponsive Steering?

angusis2fast4u
 Share

Recommended Posts

angusis2fast4u Enthusiast

angusis2fast4u

Posted
Posted

Hi, I have a 32 Gts-t and the steering seems to be quite unresponsive and most noticable above 80-100kmh, and there seems to be a little play in the wheel. as far as suspension work goes i have front and rear camber arms (KKR) and a HICAS elimination kit, I also have castor arms and HSD coilovers.

I have a mate who has a 32 GTS-4 with just coilovers and camber arms and he has the same issue. (also both cars seem to crab a little while driving)

Is this a thing in all 32's? what can be done to get rid of it?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449163-r32-gts-t4-unresponsive-steering/
Share on other sites
angusis2fast4u Enthusiast

angusis2fast4u

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Oh my god. Just take it to a mechanic already.

It's been.... Mechanic said he didn't know

Now if you read my question, I am asking a question which is NOT specific to MY car, I am asking if it is a common issue specific to R32's

If you're going to be arrogant make sure you are replying to a topic properly.

Edited by angusis2fast4u
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Oh my god. Take it to a decent mechanic.

Seriously - as if it is a common problem. It's probably the one thread on here that hasn't been started 40 trillion times.

By the way - nice description of your problem too. Didn't know if it was low power assistance, if it didn't want to turn in, if it was just understeering, etc etc etc.

Now you know why I didn't respond to your question properly. Because it was useless.

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

No it's not a thing in all 32's.

Take it to a good steering and suspension place.

They will provide you with an alignment print out and give you a list of the issues that need to be resolved and a quote to do the work.

angusis2fast4u Enthusiast

angusis2fast4u

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Oh my god. Take it to a decent mechanic.

Seriously - as if it is a common problem. It's probably the one thread on here that hasn't been started 40 trillion times.

By the way - nice description of your problem too. Didn't know if it was low power assistance, if it didn't want to turn in, if it was just understeering, etc etc etc.

Now you know why I didn't respond to your question properly. Because it was useless.

You do realize you have an issue?

angusis2fast4u Enthusiast

angusis2fast4u

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No it's not a thing in all 32's.

Take it to a good steering and suspension place.

They will provide you with an alignment print out and give you a list of the issues that need to be resolved and a quote to do the work.

Thanks Sinista for taking it seriously, I will take it to another shop and see what they say, I took it to a shop who i've dealt with for a long time now and always trusted them, maybe they just missed something but i'll take it elsewhere and see what they say.

Thanks man

Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted

Thanks but I'm like GTSboy. It's frustrating

32's are old/aged and most have been flogged, hit gutters, pot holes and people just don't look after their rides.

Could be anything or everything - Ball joints, bushes, shocks, tie rod ends, steering rack and the list goes on

From a $55 alignment to a $4000 dollar bill

I've had 2gts-t's and I've got one now. All have been tight and respond beautifully. Very direct.

Also I have spent small fortunes on some other skylines to get it to the same state.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

1. Take troubled car to mechanic to get diagnosis/fix

2. They can't find anything

3. Best thing to do is create a thread on SAU instead of taking it to another place, while still driving your car with dodgy steering?

Some potential issues: flogged out bushes in the upper arms|steering rack mounts|rear end, bad alignment, weirdly worn/dodgy tyres, worn dampers.

Good luck and post the issue(s) and fixes for reference.

Also, crabbing cars => bend chassis?

Elegant Skyline Enthusiast

Elegant Skyline

Posted
Posted (edited)

And just to build this thread up, just cos your mates car has a similar issue doesn't mean it's a common problem.

So going by your logic, when will it to be considered a 'common problem' to you Mr Ben?

three cars? or four? maybe even five?

Edited by Elegant Skyline
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Ok. Semi related. This happened. Took it to technician they said no worries . Also happened to a mate.

What do you guys think?

post-107339-0-09947200-1412224808_thumb.gif

They say a picture paints a thousand words, hopefully animation paints 9000 words.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...