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Personally for my car throttle response was better....I wired my grounding kit to my throttle bodies. Shifting was better (auto). If you read g35driver or myg37, a lot of them will say the same thing. I think it's also all the electronics and drive by wire system.

Camr33 - I'd think your car may have a tune done to it if it felt really different in terms of acceleration and power. Like Greg said, some tunes allow stock ECU to be used.

I wouldn't say its in my head, as I didn't know it had a grounding kit until after I bought it.

But it definitely had a definite power advantage over the others I drove, like I said- is there a way I can tell if it is chipped or has aftermarket cams

PS: It could also just be a tight engine... My V35 350GT goes hard (compared to others) and I'm not surprised... with such low mileage and the condition it was in when it was sold, it makes sense to me.

  • 2 months later...
  • 1 month later...

So thought I would get a baseline done on my V36.

Vehicle is stock in the way of performance mods.

Car year: 2012

Millage: 20,500km

Trans: 7sp auto

Fuel: 98 octane fuel

Temp: 26-28 degrees with low humidity (perth summer)

Dyno: dynapac (hub dyno)

Power: 220kW at 6600rpm

Torque: 340Nm at 4600rpm

I feel that these are unusually high numbers thoughts?

So thought I would get a baseline done on my V36.

Vehicle is stock in the way of performance mods.

Car year: 2012

Millage: 20,500km

Trans: 7sp auto

Fuel: 98 octane fuel

Temp: 26-28 degrees with low humidity (perth summer)

Dyno: dynapac (hub dyno)

Power: 220kW at 6600rpm

Torque: 340Nm at 4600rpm

I feel that these are unusually high numbers thoughts?

It's not out of the question, there are a number of different factors at play not withstanding that particular dyno itself may read a bit optimistic on average(If it is a hub dyno i think they tend to read a bit higher than a rolling dyno anyway, but not much).

If you do get performance mods make sure it's on the same dyno for this reason so it will give you a more reliable comparison.

Will do, my intention is to keep continuity with dynos.

I will shortly be adding some:

Fast Intentions HFCs,

Motordyne M370 intake and

Cash flow dependent the Takeka CAI

Then dyno, retune an report back.

On a side note: I was having a chat with the tuner today and he said that the ecu learnt very quick eg: he did 6 runs the first 4 ran rich AFR then leaned out in the last two without any input from his end.

Guessing most of these v36's are autos with stock ecu thus the 180km/h limit, can everyone chime in what gear was the dyno run done? im guessing that will affect these numbers for sure...

For example to do a whole rpm band dyno run, they would have to be done in 3rd gear as it would cutoff at 180km/s in 4th before it redlines...

just my thoughts :)

  • Like 1

I requested the uprev lic be aquirred for my vehicle prior to the dyno runs to allow the removal of the limiter which for reference was reached in 4th in the low 6000rpms (first run before limiter removal.

I raised the question when I was informed that the run was undertaken in 4th "why it wasn't performed in the 1:1 gear (5th on the 7sp)." The tuners response was the power that is made by the car isnt dependent on the gear, rather the gears determine what rpm that power gets put down in... For example the peak power remains the same in all gears it's just seen earlier in the rpm band in lower gears.

Now this is just my understanding (not nessarilly correct), so jump in with any corrections.

Now torque on the other hand I would assume is a different subject?

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...

What dyno machine did you use?

I got 180rkw with stillen hfc uprev base tune on dynodynamics.

I ran the diagnosis with obde2, no error codes, Afr is around 12.2 under wot.

I got 5AT 08 SP. Going to get Takeda Rc2 Cai and go for a proper tune when i have time, prolly have to inject more fuel after cai to get the afr under 12 with wot

Edited by Colt357

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