Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Looking for a cheap reliable race car. this will be a dedicated race car. what are people opinions about this set up. Im not wanting to be competitive just have fun. Looking to enter hill climbs, super sprints etc. No door to door racing atm. I just sold my r33 GTR and cost me quite a bit in repairs. i Just want to start getting in the sport and not be always worried about breaking the car. My thinking is that if i stay away from forced induction, then there would be less things to go wrong. Less pressure on the motor. with an LS1 its easier to fix.

Weight will probably be lighter as well, with loads of torque. with bolt on mods could easily achieve a reliable 400hp. Don't factor in conversion costs of the V8.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/
Share on other sites

There used to be a v8 r32 getting around but I am pretty sure it was sold on and not sure where it got to. It had a solid 300kw, was very set up and went nicely.

And if you want to save some money on the idea MBS026 on these forums has a half finished one you could probably look at starting with

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7410650
Share on other sites

Good luck cheap and race car don't go togeather..... Unless you and spanner yourself.

Have you ever tracked or raced a car before? If not try something under powered and good handling. I started in a stock mx5, best bang for buck track car bar none. Your mate will hang s#it on you till you beat them...

Skylines are big heavy and handle like a turd... But bucket loads of fun on the track.... Can't see a v8 one been cheap... The weapon of choice these days seem to be evos. Go well, sound and look like s#it. I.M.O.

Give me a RB on boost any day....

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7410738
Share on other sites

i know i sound like a knob but the car already has the ls1 in it and the car is cheap. Ive been traking my GTR for 3 years, going to track day events, now i want to start getting into some competition events. Alot of the cars i have been around, many of the issues are to do with the turbo/intercooler/boost. so my thinking is the less you have, the more reliable its going to be. When i say cheap its all realative i guess. looking around the 10-20 grand.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7410806
Share on other sites

There is undeniably some merit in the idea.

With some thought and attention to detail, an LS / R chassis marriage could work, with better weight distribution and the same sort of power output (if different delivery) as something with the RB engine.

If you don't care what people who don't know any better have to say, then an MX5 is top of the tree. And if you want to go fast, then an Evo is the pick.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7410880
Share on other sites

I love the LS engines, and I agree that an LS R33 could be a good thing. Just be aware that you might limit your choices in competition, as most categories wont allow this type of engine swap, unless you're in the open class against sports sedans.

+1 on a cheap, fun track car. Because nobody has said it yet, I'm going to chime in with my usual EK / EG Civic or DC2 Integra. Barrels of fun (very neutral handling despite what the uneducated anti FWD keyboard warriors say) and reasonable power to weight. If you want to spend a few extra $$ you can pick up a K swapped Civic / Integra which gives you the potential for a reliable 200-250 HP at the wheels. Plenty for a FWD buzzbox that weighs nothing.

Remember, the easiest way to gain speed is to lose weight (the car, not you). Start with something light and well balanced and you don't have to go nuts with mods to get a fun, quick car.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7410938
Share on other sites

i know i sound like a knob but the car already has the ls1 in it and the car is cheap. Ive been traking my GTR for 3 years, going to track day events, now i want to start getting into some competition events. Alot of the cars i have been around, many of the issues are to do with the turbo/intercooler/boost. so my thinking is the less you have, the more reliable its going to be. When i say cheap its all realative i guess. looking around the 10-20 grand.

You don't sound like a knob.... Tracking a GTR R33 must of made your wallet bleed.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7411047
Share on other sites

i don't mind spending the money but once your afraid of driving the car hard because you don't want anything to break is not my idea of fun. at the top of the list for me is a s14. Reason why iOS that i really like circuit racing but want to try and learn how to drift as well

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7411107
Share on other sites

^ shows an LS fits but how much is it extended past straight lining?

Credit to the owner, and a good looking unit should be fun but would struggle to match an Evo or MX5 anywhere there's bends. Warps also makes valid points about the Honda platforms.

An R chassis / LS combination would be a hoot to drive and a real talking point, but I figure the others easier to set up due to collective knowledge on the things.

All that said, if I was to re-power my 33, it would get an LS...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7411951
Share on other sites

I was thinking about buying this

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/logan-village/cars-vans-utes/nissan-skyline-v8-r33/1056223037

This car still needs a lot of gear as it only has the conversion, but thought it would be a good start.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7412775
Share on other sites

From someone who has a half built LS1 into an R33 for track purposes, you really need to listen to Warps. You will instantly limit your choices of what/where you can enter to race.

You end up in sports sedans if under CAMS, or in the full on open categorys under anything else. From memory with drifting they've else banned engine swaps from different manufacturers.

That being said, they look great, and sound spastic. If I remember correctly, before the suspension was fully sorted on Stu's R32 LS1 he gave the keys to someone and it went a 1:02 or 1:03 around Wakefield.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449805-r33-with-an-ls1/#findComment-7413878
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...