Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sadly the car has been written off by insurance. Below are the items which arent standard from a factory R33 GTR. Everything was bought brand new other than the ECU

1) Nismo Fuel Pump and full major service done with N1 water pump at 90,000km+, Currently 125,000km+
2) TE3718x9.5 +12 265/35/18 Michelin PS2 Porsche (tyres bought less than 10,000km ago and rims 2 yrs ago)
3) N1 Engine and N1 turbos
4) N1 19 rows oil cooler
5) N1 oil pump
6) Tein Super Street Coilover at 80,000km+
7) Project MU SCR Rotors front and rear at 90,000km+
8) Stock Brembo with Nismo R Tune pads at 90,000km+
9) Clear front and side indicators
10) ERD rebuilt gearbox with Nismo Coppermix Twinplate at 100,000km+
11) Apexi PFC and boost controller kit
12) Factory carbon wing
13) Trust Ti-R catback titanium exhaust (slightly blunted as per photo but can be cut)
14) HEL braided brake and clutch lines at 80,000km+
15) Engine seal at and engine mounts 100,000km+
16) Iridium spark plugs at 110,000km+
The parts of the whole car would be worth way more or you could just buy the car and repair it yourself. The attached zip folder contains all the photos. This is a genuine N1 with Nissan FAST verification. $9k for the whole wreck pick up in Brisbane. This will need to go ASAP.

fwdphotos.zip

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449972-r33-gtr-v-spec-n1-wreck/
Share on other sites

Congratulations to the buyer :)

If he'd like to PM me about insurance, I'm happy to offer info within the scope of what I know.

And...

All the best to you Brandon...

Sorry to see her go I bet?

I'll update you when its all finalised. Its either going to a close mate that helped me do a lot of the work on the car or I'll use this as an opportunity to fix all the problem which you were going to if you got it if its financial within my limit.

I hate to let it go after this mate of mine reminded me how much effort and time I've spent on her. And my wife telling me its our wedding car. Lol.

Still waiting for quote from the panel beater and some parts from supplier. If the cost is within limits maybe its a good opportunity to restore the entire car. I'll create another thread detailing all the work if it goes that way.

If not, it'll end up with my mate and he will restore it himself since he's a mechanic by trade.

Biltz: You can close/lock this thread if you wish.

Edited by Brandon

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...