Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah definitely man. They are most likely on their way out. I was looking at MCA and heard good things about it. It is a bit pricey though, but they have been proven on the track. I'll keep an eye out for some second hand stuff atm and we'll see what happens.

A mate of mine got 8kg/8kg MCA Blue for his Evo7. With 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 rubber, the ride was unnaturally comfortable, almost standard-like. We drove through some rough roads that my GT-R would never be able to do at the speed his Evo went (like 50 km/h, really rough road). It was incredible.

Shows that a well dampened unit can use higher spring rates 'comfortably'.

A mate of mine got 8kg/8kg MCA Blue for his Evo7. With 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 rubber, the ride was unnaturally comfortable, almost standard-like. We drove through some rough roads that my GT-R would never be able to do at the speed his Evo went (like 50 km/h, really rough road). It was incredible.

Shows that a well dampened unit can use higher spring rates 'comfortably'.

And also.....you cannot compare spring rates between cars. Different suspension geometry means that there are different lever arm lengths working on the suspension unit. a 4kg spring on one car might be quite firm but be waaaaay too soft on another, simply because the second car has a longer lever working on it. Squishes the spring less, but can apply more force over that short distance.

Thats right. Which brings to the question, can you compare spring rates on the same model of cars. So can we safely compare spring rates among R33 GTSTs? Im guessing to a degree we can, but obviously the different setups guys run and different components they use and possibly allignment specs will have a bearing so it won't be a dead accurate comparison. Yay? Nay?

*damped*

Just sayin'

Thanks, didn't proof read (shifty typing at work :P).

And also.....you cannot compare spring rates between cars. Different suspension geometry means that there are different lever arm lengths working on the suspension unit. a 4kg spring on one car might be quite firm but be waaaaay too soft on another, simply because the second car has a longer lever working on it. Squishes the spring less, but can apply more force over that short distance.

Yeah I agree, but 8kg springs on any road going car should be noticeably stiffer compared to stock, no? I drove and rode in his car before the change, I changed the standard struts out my self on the weekend. Reference to my GT-R was to paint the condition of the road we went over, not to compare the two cars' handling.

Thats right. Which brings to the question, can you compare spring rates on the same model of cars. So can we safely compare spring rates among R33 GTSTs? Im guessing to a degree we can, but obviously the different setups guys run and different components they use and possibly allignment specs will have a bearing so it won't be a dead accurate comparison. Yay? Nay?

Agree. Best way to compare is to ride in the car itself, which of course is pretty difficult.

Any 2 R33s (so long as not comparing GTST with GTR as the weight distribution is a complicating factor) can be compared spring rate for spring rate. Everything else in them is the same unless someone has significantly longer lower arms or the like.

That said - ARBs are a confounding factor that most people neglect when talking about this stuff. You cannot compare my car to one with 8kg coilovers if they only have stock ARBs. My ARBs probably contribute 50% of my roll stiffness and maybe 50% of my single wheel bump stiffness (if I could be bothered figuring it out). On the 8kg coilover car, that could be only 10%. Just to make up a believable random comparison.

Any 2 R33s (so long as not comparing GTST with GTR as the weight distribution is a complicating factor) can be compared spring rate for spring rate. Everything else in them is the same unless someone has significantly longer lower arms or the like. ...

Good to know, I always wondered about that. I once worked out that the stock springs are like 2.7kg/mm or something so all the Jap spec stuff at 10 or 12 kg/mm seem completely over the top. I also find it interesting how small the coilover spring diameter tends to be compared to the stockies, they're tiny...

Also great point about the swaybars, it seems that a lot of cheapie coilovers attempt to take on the job of the swaybar by upping the spring rate. Instead a lower spring rate + bigger swaybars is the better solution AFAIK. At least that's what I did :)

  • Like 1

So I was thinking of going something like this for now, for 'testing'. What do you guys think? Anyone know what spring rates these may be? Seller doesnt know.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281478597591?item=281478597591&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Cheers

One last thing, how do I know if a set of coilovers has adjustable damper by looking at it?

Cheers again

Little adjustment knob, most likely on the top sometimes on the bottom. Google for pictures of BC coilovers to give yourself an idea.

The ones you have linked are damping adjustable by the look of it.

Edited by owen1r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Please ignore I found the right way of installing it thanks
    • There are advantages, and disadvantages to remapping the factory.   The factory runs billions of different maps, to account for sooooo many variables, especially when you bring in things like constantly variable cams etc. By remapping all those maps appropriately, you can get the car to drive so damn nicely, and very much so like it does from the factory. This means it can utilise a LOT of weird things in the maps, to alter how it drives in situations like cruise on a freeway, and how that will get your fuel economy right down.   I haven't seen an aftermarket ECU that truly has THAT MANY adjustable parameters. EG, the VAG ECUs are somewhere around 2,000 different tables for it to work out what to do at any one point in time. So for a vehicle being daily driven etc, I see this as a great advantage, but it does mean spending a bit more time, and with a tuner who really knows that ECU.   On the flip side, an aftermarket ECU, in something like a weekender, or a proper race car, torque based tuning IMO doesn't make that much sense. In those scenarios you're not out there hunting down stuff like "the best way to minimise fuel usage at minor power so that we can go from 8L/100km to 7.3L/100km. You're more worried about it being ready to make as much freaking power as possible when you step back on the loud pedal as you come out of turn 2, not waiting the extra 100ms for all the cams to adjust etc. So in this scenario, realistically you tune the motor to make power, based on the load. People will then play with things like throttle response, and drive by wire mapping to get it more "driveable".   Funnily enough, I was watching something Finnegans Garage, and he has a huge blown Hemi in a 9 second 1955 Chev that is road registered. To make it more driveable on the road recently, they started testing blocking up the intake with kids footballs, to effectively reduce air flow when they're on the road, and make the throttle less touchy and more driveable. Plus some other weird shit the yankee aftermarket ECUs do. Made me think of Kinks R34...
    • I do this, I also don't get the joke  
    • Return flow cooler will be killing you I reckon. You can certainly push more through a low mount setup but they're good numbers for a stock looking engine bay.  Mine made 345rwkw (hub) at 22psi on 98 with a "highflow" on a stock manifold but it's a long way from a normal high flow or standard engine. I used one of those Turbosmart IWG-75's and it was great with the Motec running closed loop boost with pressure being applied to both sides of the diaphragm. 
    • Hey man do you have pic of adaptor plate by any chance I need to match up the bolt holes as my gearbox adaptor plate ones are way off the only bolts of starter motor are matching thanks 
×
×
  • Create New...