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The main difference between a v-spec and a non v-spec is the ATTESA systems used. The v-spec uses an ATTESA pro system which has a higher rate (about 10 times as fast) of checking the wheels for slippage and thus transferring power to the front. It also has a active differential for left to right power transfer. From most articles I have come across (and from driving the two myself), not many people can actually tell the difference in driving the two. The v-spec was (is) considered the top of the range, however the the physical driving differences are minimal.

I suggest if you want to find the best BCNR33 you can... look here

http://www.zele-international.com/search_33.html

*HINT: click on the yellow boxes*

Personally I would get a non-V-Spec I think stock it is a better road car for Australia with the extra ground clearance.

He was looking at an R33 not R32 GT-R...

I suggest if you want to find the best BCNR33 you can... look here

http://www.zele-international.com/search_33.html

*HINT: click on the yellow boxes*

Personally I would get a non-V-Spec so you can switch it into RWD mode (I have done it, I know you can do it, so don't question me!) and I think stock it is a better road car for Australia with the extra ground clearance.

How do you switch your r33 gtr to 2wd mode?

He was looking at an R33 not R32 GT-R..

I've seen r33 gt-r's without brembo calipers, and every gt-r ive seen with the extra lip was a v spec.......if im wrong, im wrong.

Im just going by what i know to be correct at the time.

How do you switch your r33 gtr to 2wd mode?
 

DEAR HPI,

I have just brought an R33 GT-R VSpec. Do you know how to install a switch to make it RWD, so i can toggle between the two settings for dynos and burnouts at the drags? By fitting the switch can it cause any damage to the box or the computer system?

Brad

It is not a good idea to try and trick the ATTESSA system on the R33 Series of cars. On this model, even with the system disabled, there is still residual hydraulic clutch pressure in the transfer case, which will cause massive slip if the car is placed on a dyno. Result? A stuffed transfer case.

Hope this helps.

How do you switch your r33 gtr to 2wd mode?

You can make a R33 GTR RWD by removing the front shaft from the transfer case hence stopping all power going to the front wheels.

That's how we tune my car on a 2WD dyno anyway....

On the strip we use the HKS ETC to cut power to the fronts for burnouts.

You can make a R33 GTR RWD by removing the front shaft from the transfer case hence stopping all power going to the front wheels.

That's how we tune my car on a 2WD dyno anyway....

On the strip we use the HKS ETC to cut power to the fronts for burnouts.

Speaking of which............. :cheers:

You can make a R33 GTR RWD by removing the front shaft from the transfer case hence stopping all power going to the front wheels.

That's how we tune my car on a 2WD dyno anyway....

On the strip we use the HKS ETC to cut power to the fronts for burnouts.

Thanks leewah, i also remove the front propeller shaft. From Gojira's post he implies that a non vspec can be "switched" to 2wd. Removing the front shaft would be the same excercise whether vspec or not.

Yes that is what I mean, but again with the caveat that sock mentions...

Fixing that problem is simply a matter of cracking open a valve to relieve the pressure.

But you need to get under the car for that.

For just being an RWD idiot for a while the fuses are fine on their own but any situation where the front wheels will be static is a problem... Anyway, I apologise to the thread starter for mentioning this, I knew I shouldn't have

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