Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So do what? Wait till its cooler?

That would still mean the tune was on an absolute knife edge.

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

So if you go back to the original question the OP put up - what would cause excessive knock.... My answer still stands......

Yep. Then his engine dies from maxed injectors.

Also, less dense air doesn't mean a lean mixture.

Edited by Ben C34

Yep. Then his engine dies from maxed injectors.

Also, less dense air doesn't mean a lean mixture.

I'm not disagreeing with you, I simply put up a variable that no-one had yet commented on in this thread.

You are right, less density in air doesn't always equate to leaning out, and i never said that in my post, but higher air temps can/will and have shown to increase overall engine temp, including combustion temps, therfore aiding in the cause of knock (tune or no tune)

What turbo? Adjustable actuator? External wastegate?

Dont think this has been mentioned yet, you might be able to turn the boost down that way

If it were me I'd ring ERD (I think Dan was having some personal problems so not sure if they are still open but worth a try) and get some info like what boost it was tuned at etc. Adjust boost back to that level or lower if possible

Do I see 46 degrees IGN when everything is maxed at around 7000?

Seems excessive.

They are peak values. So not necessarily at the same time.

If it was that engine would be dead!

if its leaning out so bad with the evident knock levels then just remove the e-clip in the actuator and disconnect the rod from the waste gate for no boost and set duty cycle at 95 or lower.

that is if its a daily and u cant get it sorted in time

Edited by Dan_J

The OP has a hand commander.

One great feature of the old Fc is the ability to do a mass change to maps and then return to "as was" at the next engine start.

If you get a crook batch of fuel, it's a piece of piss to pull 5 degrees from the whole IGN map and unless you're pushing the engine you won't notice much difference.

And why would you push an engine if you're concerned about knock.

Turbo is a to4e .63 rear I think

External wastegate is a epr 38mm can't really find anything on this wastegate other then expressparts use to sell them, and it was tuned by efi performance not erd my bad. I don't really want to change anything on controller as I have no idea what I'm doing, but I will give efi a call tomorrow and hopefully get it in for a tune .

Mate you have an Fc with hand commander.

They have a feature where you can do mass changes to maps very simply, not requiring ANY great skill.

As soon as you turn off and restart, those mass changes are forgotten and the Fc maps are exactly as they were.

I use this feature after copping a tank of poor fuel.

It's also useful info to give to your tuner. You can say your knock number dropped to "X" after removing "Y" degrees of timing for example.

Download and read the hand commander instructions and there's also Paul's massive how-to thread on SAU.

i found when my knock randomly went high this was usually due to a dodgy batch of fuel....you're at the limits of some of your setup, seeing as its your daily and you have a power fc...don't shag around...get a z32 afm new injectors and a decent fuel pump.

Just had a good look at it ..everything still connected where it should be and no leaks anywhere .. So took it for a drive bit risky but it's colder and was hoping for a miricale and boost went past 20psi when it should be 15 .. Any reason it would be letting more boost through ? Could it be a wastgate fault ?

Just had a good look at it ..everything still connected where it should be and no leaks anywhere .. So took it for a drive bit risky but it's colder and was hoping for a miricale and boost went past 20psi when it should be 15 .. Any reason it would be letting more boost through ? Could it be a wastgate fault ?

Yep. Or the line going to it.
  • Like 1

Maxed injectors and maxed AFM means its either boosting way higher than it should, or there is something seriously wrong with the tune.

Edit - Just read it is boosting to 20psi. What turbo are you running? TO4E means jack shit. There are about 20 different kinds of TO4E. BUt overall, you have a boost control issue is and it needs to be fixed ASAP.

Keep it running like that and you'll need a new engine in about 2-3 days

Edited by The Mafia

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too!  Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
    • Hi 🙋‍♂️. Just bought my Unicorn but the interior need some minor work so it would match my expectations ;). I noticed it is hard to get used oem floor mats in good condition so i started to dig if there's any chance to buy set of new ones. I found two websites - nengun and amayama and it looks like one can still buy factory new floor mats in Japan, but thers a small issue. Some mats (i assume genuine, oem ones) are marked as G4900 and these are "discontinued". The ones you can buy are marked as G4911 but i have no idea if these are also oem, made by other producer or some lower quality replacements that looks entirely different. Can anyone help? 😃  P.s. there is also some strange indication - 0V005, 0V015 and 0V505. Any idea what does it mean? Would appreciate any help with this 🙏
    • Hi, Marek here 🙋‍♂️. I finally fulfilled my longtime dream - recently bought Stagea and now waiting for it to arrive in Poland. There's only few of these in my country, and one of the owners  recommended mi this forum as a source of all the info i'd need since now i own one  so here i am.  
    • Version 1 aluminium airbox is.......not acceptable No pics as I "didn't like the look.....alot" Even after all my "CAD", and measurements, the leg near the fusebox just didn't sit right as it ended up about 10mm long and made the angle of the dangle look wrong, the height was a little short as well, meh, I wasn't that confident that Version 1 was going to be an instant winner I might give Version 2 another go, there's plenty of aluminium at work, but, after having in on and off a few times, and laying in the old OEM airbox without the new pod filter and MAF, there may be an option to modify the OEM air box and still use the Autoexe front cover and filter.... maybe This >  Needs to fit in here, but using the panel, and not the pod, the MAF will need to fit in the airbox though> I'm thinking as the old OEM box and Autoexe cover that is sitting in the shed is just sitting around doing nothing, and they are relatively abundant and cheap to replace if I mess it up and need another, it may well fit with some modifications to how the Autoexe brackets mounts to the rad support, and some dremiling to move it get in there, should give me some more room for activities, as I don't want to move the MAF and affect the tune Sealing the hole it requires to stick it in the air box is simple, a tight fit and some pinch weld will seal it up tight  I am calling this a later problem though
    • and it ends up being already priced in as though you're just on 91RON without any ethanol. Car will lose a bit of economy as the short and long term fuel trims bring down the AFR back to stoich or whatever it is for cruise/idle for the engine.  
×
×
  • Create New...