Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Peeps,

Thanks to the community knowledge base, I have successfully got my AC working well again (9C at the vents on FC :-)), and documented the fix at the end of this link.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199591-aircon-regassers-in-melbourne-that-use-hychill-hr12-gas/

The problem is I now have a problem with the AC fuse (which appears to power the AC electromagnet) blows after about an hour of operation.

The last time I was probably lucky that I didn't get a fire as it melted the spade fuse in the fusebox?!?

So back tot he collective. Anyone know where I might start to diagnose this?

1989 R32 GTST - Bog standard.

Thanks

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/
Share on other sites

magnetic clutch is farked

Most likely scenario

You have the right size fuse in there? If its melting I dare say there is a fair current draw so probably right fuse if not higher.

Only thing I would suggest is meetering from one end of the circuit to the clutch to check if there is any resistance in the wire. It wont completely eliminate this but will help

Ac belt not too tight?

Not too many things it can be. Id watch the clutch when its engaged and see if its slipping. Maybe pull the belt off, engage the clutch and see if it spins ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/#findComment-7452114
Share on other sites

If it consistently blows the fuse after that same time you're probably on the money with a short to ground in the mag. clutch coil.

The clutch circuitry runs from the 10A fuse to the relay then to the mag. clutch.

Lots of places for damage along the way, any of which will blow the fuse but if it's a consistent time interval, more likely to be the coil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/#findComment-7452131
Share on other sites

Agree with all the above. Measure the resistance of the mag clutch solenoid. On the 32 GTRs it should be 3.5 ohms, I imagine it would be the same on yours. If its much lower than 3.5 it will pull too much current and blow the fuse. When mine went I found info on here that they can be re-wound, but i just got a good second hander.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/#findComment-7452400
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't think the shuffle can damage the turbos. It only happens at low shaft speeds and loads. It's just annoying (to some people - others are tickled by the effect) and it quite possibly reduces spool performance a little bit.
    • Oh dear. The panel beating needs to be done before the filler work. Do you have a photo of the dent before you started? Hard enough to not flex and only hit the high spots?  What do you mean it was just temporary? 
    • Can u check this way it works for power supply?
    • These coils draw 10amps that what i read online
    • I appreciate the detailed explanation, think I understand now. I spent the better part of last night reading what I could about shuffle and potential solutions. I had replaced the OEM twin turbo pipe with an alternate Y pipe that is separated further away from the turbo. The current one is from HKS and I had a previous pipe that was separated even further away, both have shuffle. I had heard that a divider can be welded in to the OEM pipe to remove turbulence, and figure that aftermarket pipes that are more separated would achieve the same thing. From what I read, most people with -10 turbos get shuffle due to their size, though it's a bit less common with -5s on a standard RB26. I think Nismoid mentioned somewhere it's because OEM recirculation piping is common in Australia with -5 cars. It seems that the recommendation tends to vary between a few options, which I've ordered in what I think is most feasible for me:  1. Retune the MAP or boost controller to try to eliminate shuffle 2. Install OEM recirculation piping 3. Something called a 'balance pipe' welded onto the exhaust manifolds. I don't know if kits for this are available, seems like pure fabrication work 4. simply go single turbo My current layout is as follows: Garrett 2860 -5s HKS Racing Suction intake MAF delete pipes HKS racing chamber intake piping hard intercooler piping,  ARC intercooler HKS SSQV BOV and pipe Haltech 2500 elite ECU and boost solenoid/controller HPI dump pipes OEM exhaust manifolds HKS VCAM step 1 and supporting head modifications Built 2.6 bottom end All OEM recirculation piping was removed, relevant areas sealed off I'll keep an eye out for any alternative solutions but can get started with this.  Only other question is, does shuffle harm the turbo (or anything else)? It seems like some people say your turbo shafts will explode because of the opposing forces after a while and others say they just live with it and adjust their pedal foot accordingly. 
×
×
  • Create New...