Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You must use 12 teeth on the crank if you want this setup to work with your Haltech Platinum Pro. :)

FYI this is 100% true. I called Haltech.

Also in regards to the Haltech Platinum Pro Series on an RB26:

You can use the "24 + 1" drop down option to:

1) Use Murrayis' cam angle sensor and honeywell hall trigger as the HOME sensor (the '1' in the "24 + 1")

2) Use 12 teeth on the crank with the honeywell sensor. IF YOU USE A WHEEL ON THE CRANK-You must use Hall-effect trigger or VR (reluctor) trigger!! (this is fine since this particular kit is designed around the honeywheel HALL trigger).

I hate to say in this particular thread...but all this being said, you can use the factory CAS with the AEM 24+1 trigger wheel in it for the CAMSHAFT "HOME" location and Murrayis' CRANKSHAFT sensor with a 12 tooth pickup for the "24" sensor. This would still give you the resolution you need on the crankshaft and appear stock on the camshaft (ie- not cut up any covers).

Thanks

Patrick

Hi Patrick,

When I was checking with Haltech originally they said 6 slots on the balancer would be fine as the crank does two rotations per cycle making 12 trigger points or 2 per cyl.

This is true for any universal Haltech ECU such as a Platinum Sport or Elite, but not the Platinum Pro Plugin series ECUs. The Pro only supports the stock setup or 24+1 as explained above.

For the single cam home/sync signal, in the past I've just covered the stock disk with a sticker and cut out one of the inner 6 windows to make a single slot for the optical sensor to pick up. Works fine.

  • Like 1

For the single cam home/sync signal, in the past I've just covered the stock disk with a sticker and cut out one of the inner 6 windows to make a single slot for the optical sensor to pick up. Works fine.

Simple genius there! Would save all several bucks on the home trigger.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

anyone got this with nistune?

Im thinking of getting the crank version instead of the cam so i dont have to worry about belt slack.

Nope makes no difference the only thing to check is the signal voltage, you just have to make sure you use the correct signal wire off the cas if you want to use the factory loom and the other wire off the cas for your tdc cam trigger. That's it and done

OK helpful advice coming down the pipe.

About the Cam wheel and trigger:

1) The flat head cap screws that the trigger is apparently designed for are near impossible to find. I will be making some myself by machining normal M7 cap screws. The cams have M7x1.00 pitch threads...yes M7x1.00. Should have known when I had to get the 11mm socket out that something was funny. With my Tomei cam gears (and Tomei cams) I needed 43mm of depth for a NORMAL headed bolt to go on. a flat head screws should be similar length...Flat head cap screws are a great idea though because the countersinking will allow more room under the top timing cover (I'll get to that in #3 below). I have attached a picture showing NORMAL BOLTS M7x1.00 (50mm cut down to 43mm length). I also am using the factory plate and added lock washers.

2) Be Prepared to cut your timing cover. Thank goodness I had this gaudy Nitto clear cover and it trimmed out very easily. The sensor still SLIGHTLY protrudes into the flat plane of the cover, but I bet I could lightly file it (1/8" or so). I will be making a new plate to rivet on to my Nitto cover in the shape of the (sorry to say) Alien-head-shaped hole. Again see pictures for clarification. Not much about the design could be changed to rectify this.

3) The bolts from #1 above will definitely break the plane unless I find some flat head (countersunk) M7x1.00 cap screws. I'm telling you they are impossible to find...I'll be making some.

just after some clarrification on this,

why are the countersunk bolts required for the trigger wheel?i understand how they could give more clearance to the timing cover but what do you mean by break the plane? the plane of the timing cover?

and the cover would definitely need to be cut to clear the sensor? if thats the case i hope there is a work around..

has anybody got this fully fitted up and functioning?

Anyone used the crank trigger mount with a ross balancer? I have a metal jacket so i was wondering if I could use the bracket with the ross balancer, they should sit roughly in the same position and i might get the chopper wheel made for it as ross wants $340 and i dont think it should be that much to have a piece of steel laser cut to the size i need.

just after some clarrification on this,

why are the countersunk bolts required for the trigger wheel?i understand how they could give more clearance to the timing cover but what do you mean by break the plane? the plane of the timing cover?

and the cover would definitely need to be cut to clear the sensor? if thats the case i hope there is a work around..

has anybody got this fully fitted up and functioning?

Yes the bolt heads would protrude into the factory timing cover. I will try to get some pictures next time I am at the shop, but I'm going hunting for a week, so it will be a while.

The parts he made are for countersunk bolt heads...but 7mm countersunk hex bolts are extremely hard to find.

Hi Guys,

Sorry I've been a little busy of late.

The M7 Countersunk bolts are hard to fine however not impossible - If you cannot locate you can use a spring washer and normal M7 cap bolt in it's place which will hold it securely.

I have this kit running on my car so it works with no effort what so ever once you've plugged in the tooth and TDC offset into the ECU.

You will need to cut your cover or leave it off all together. I've had my cover off for year without any dramas.

Oh k, but even with the correct bolts the sensor still protrudes and requires the cover to be cut?

Yes this is the case as well...only where the sensor is (I believe). I will try to dig around for pictures or get more for clarity for all. I've been down in the dumps lately...this car simply CAN NOT be finished!!! But this will give me some nick-nack issues to work on while I wait yet again for more parts from overseas (the last package was totally lost by international shipper).

Hi Guys,

Sorry I've been a little busy of late.

The M7 Countersunk bolts are hard to fine however not impossible - If you cannot locate you can use a spring washer and normal M7 cap bolt in it's place which will hold it securely.

I have this kit running on my car so it works with no effort what so ever once you've plugged in the tooth and TDC offset into the ECU.

You will need to cut your cover or leave it off all together. I've had my cover off for year without any dramas.

Hi Cameron

Is there any difference in what the sensor reads with these two types of wheels? not being about 6 vs 12 points but in yours having it cut out compared to this chopper wheel having points, just wanting some ideas before I get something made up.

Cheers

post-7636-0-75952900-1444728908_thumb.png

post-7636-0-86874400-1444728945_thumb.jpg

  • 1 month later...

Has any solution been found for the trigger mount bolts or a work around for cutting the cover?

What is the opinion of getting the harmonic balancer balanced after machining slots in it? I have got 12 slots machined in my balancer but it has not been balanced.

Hi Jamie,

Most people are just leaving the top cover off or cutting the clearance out for the sensor to clear the cover.

As for the bolts - If you have not been able to find them then you can use a spring washer in the hole with a bolt as normal.

Guys & Gals,

I have one set of mounts left from a buyer who fell through. $400 delivered for the set if you are interested, I have them on my desk so can ship straight away with no delays.

post-23119-0-10908600-1449115807_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Any difference in induction noise?
    • If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars   Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.
    • Just got the car back and gave it a good run back home Power wise, whilst it only made a extra 5 killerwasps up top at 7200 rpm, it made more power everywhere from 2500 rpm and kept pulling much harder all the way, to the point of me relearning when to shift so I don't hit the 7200 limiter, with the old intake it seemed to take alot more time to rev out, and, throttle response is also much improved  As I didn't want to remove the bumper every time I serviced the air filter (basically every aftermarket and fabricated CAI has the filter behind the bumper) it currently has a hektic exposed pod in the engine bay sucking in hot air, this will be rectified shortly after some some of my CAD (cardboard assisted design) for a alloy heat shield feed by the OEM intake tube behind the bumper, this will cop some wrinkle black paint, as well as the intake pipe for that totally OEM look... The only fly in the ointment was that the OEM "strut" brace doesn't fit over the rear runner of the new intake with the 2.5 engine is in the engine bay, as the 2.5 raises the engine up by 20mm, it's not a war stopper, and I didn't notice any difference without it in some twisties, but....... MX5 Mania is bringing in some GWR "fancy pants" braces that apparently do fit, if it bolts up I'll grab it, it is also stiffer than the OEM one, which is a bonus All in all I'm happy with the outcome      Fancy pants "strut" brace that gives the required clearance      This is where the clearance issue was, the GWR extends out past this
    • Well, I'm back from the dyno today. Some things do partially make sense. The pod filter/airbox delete picked up between 6-10rwkw on 98 - because heat soak does kind of affect things and there was playing with tune/timing/AFR. Oddly enough, the car was running much leaner than before. So lean it was audibly pinging on the dyno which I got video of:   70de0dd5-2099-4a71-8b10-6fc833fb9d59.mp4   We're talking going from ~12.7 in the past to the first run being at like ~14.0. It is now tuned to ~12.5 on the Dyno, which correlates to about ~12.1 on my wideband in the car. These matched last time, which is very odd. The dyno plots only show the dyno's reported AFR - should be last time, yet now it no longer agrees and was way leaner. Nobody has an explanation for how a pod can make the car run notably leaner, yet not really give any more power when you add fuel in. A few different types of intake design were tested:   94c22c34-7991-4902-af85-314b5f5bf352.mp4   There was no difference other than IAT with the pod sticking out of the bay. The pod sticking out of the bay (but connected) is actually still warmer than what I usually see on the road. Removing the pod entirely lost about ~2kw. But to be fair, all of the runs could be argued to vary by that amount when temperatures climb etc etc. It's safe to say that the filter isn't causing any restrictions of any note that can be reasonably altered in any way. This is in line with what I'd expect given the Engine Masters testing. 323KW on 98 and ~335KW on E85 is actually a pretty solid result, up about ~45kw from 99% of LS1 cammed combos, with generally much larger cams/exhaust etc as well. It is after all up 42KW (98) and 54KW (E85) from before. +10KW from a pod and removing the box is cheap as chips compared to what the head work cost per kw No, I did not get to drop the exhaust and test. When it comes to exhaust... it all just seems to change frequencies and cost or gain 2hp here or there. I don't realistically think I'll drop this to test it - because there's not much else I can really do about it/route it any other way/make it bigger/just bought mufflers. Engine masters beat the hell out of headers with a hammer to deliberately kink them and didn't lose power at all, I sincerely doubt that going larger primaries would help. If it were even possible for clearance/conversion reasons... which it's not... I may throw the E85 in there at some point and do a drag run to see what MPH it traps for science. It isn't lost on me that ~320kw Skylines do trap about the same MPH that ~370kw F-Body/Corvettes do in the USA for the same  or similar weight. (122-125mph). Of course, if I go there and trap 104mph or something then I'll just 'accidentally' have an accident on the way home from the drag strip and buy a M4.
×
×
  • Create New...