Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sounds like heresay to me. Plenty of people with RB26DETTs running more that 300kw (at the wheels) without issue: you just *must* make sure that all the ancillary systems are in place to support that kind of power and all necessary modification have been made.

If your really concerned, source an N1 block which has thicker walls and different oil galleries designed to protect the block from cracking.

LW.

Get Zoom, 08/04 mag, has a Phat 350Z 334kW twin-turbo on the cover blue 350Z.

It has an article about RB26 tuning, and they are saying 400kw@rw is what you can get on stock internals, then you'll have to start uping the internals and start looking at some other things as well.

RB26's are very strong engines, it wouldn't be so well known if it wasn't.

Up get take the RB26 over 1,000hp and over 700kw@rw, companies can sell 1,000hp RB26's wouldn't be cheap at best though.

Ha biggest crap i have ever heard.

Teh GTR Block can NEVA crack :)

All serious now, mate there are guys making well over 900 HP and the block hasn't cracked.

Oh and if you go to supra forums dont type the word GTR.

The Supra Boys seem to get a a bit of bullshititis and upset.

Must be because they worked out they bought the wrong car.:)

  • 4 weeks later...

Hi guys,

I've seen plenty of supras making more power than gtrs with stock internals, they are doing 9s (street tyre) in the US the record is 950rwhp on stock internals, there are countless making 700 to 800hp, I've never heard of a GTR doing this on stock internals or not even near so come back down to earth NISMO 400 R N1, In my point of view the supra has the upper hand as you can do much more to it with less money. Its not hard to see that the market has a wider range for the Skyline/ GTR within Australia as.

my friend has cracked his block...i'm pretty sure he told me he was running 500+whp though.

i have been told to be wary of the engine twisting when making in access of 450hp? i think getting stiffer engine mounts would help. there's also something that looks kinda like a shock absorber which kills or minimises the twisting.

my friend has cracked his block...i'm pretty sure he told me he was running 500+whp though.

i have been told to be wary of the engine twisting when making in access of 450hp? i think getting stiffer engine mounts would help. there's also something that looks kinda like a shock absorber which kills or minimises the twisting.

Yes, Nismo makes a series of mounts for the RBs, and there are "anti-twist" bars. Of course the best option would be to get an N1 block...

LW.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Welcome!  How long have you had it? And what colour is it?
    • "CAD" version 1.0 It will have a 15mm lip around the top for 6 × 5 or 6mm nutserts and fixtures (two on each of the three straight edges), and some pinch weld on any exposed edges, it has three mounting points, one of the power steering reservoir bolts, and two on the rad support, my 120mm hole saw will make short work of hole for the silicone joiner, with ample room for some pinch weld  I've also got enough Carbuilders "peel and stick" heat shield to cover the outside of it at the coolant expansion tank and on the engine side, as pictured, and internally on the lid and where the fuse box is, I've also got some thin, about 3mm, black 3M single sided sticky foam stuff that was left over after sealing some door drafts at home to help seal the lid As for the shape, it "sort of" matches the shape of the fuse box, so shouldn't look to "out of place" The lower area and hole for the intake will need pinch weld with a balloon on it to fully seal the hole and bottom of it, that will happen after it has been fabricated so I know exactly what size is required  Filter service has been trialed,  and so far it was a simple process  Just need to get some alloy, and then head into work to use the guillotine and break press in the workshop Hopefully it should be sorted in a week or two Guestimated outlay will be under a $50 for the stuff I don't have on hand (alloy, 6mm nutserts, the pinch weld, and wrinkle paint) Disclaimer: That's what the "voices in my head" are telling me how the filter box should end up getting done......lets see if they know what they are talking about  
    • Have been polishing up the trailer rims as they had been sitting in the shed for a few years and are really in need of some love. This was after a couple of passes with chrome polish - coming up quite well ✅ .
    • Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?
    • Hey mate, the brown and grey plugs would usually go to the TPS, brown one goes on the bottom connector and grey is the top but isn't used unless the car is auto, your TPS looks different to mine though I've got a series 2 engine.
×
×
  • Create New...