Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

So my next DIY project is to stop using the standard air temp sensor, which I believe is actually a water temp sensor. I actually read on this forum that the GM sensor is a pretty good alternative with a resistor in parallel (using powerfc so can't modify resistor values) if you can plumb it into an area of the system that doesn't get so heat soaked. Thinking just after the intercooler which is actually cold piping even after driving for many miles; in comparison to the hot to touch air intake plenum. I'm planning to do this in the next few weeks, so I will post a walkthrough of this like I did with my AAC cleaning.

This should help the tuning process as currently, after driving 50miles/80km, I'm having to retune slightly because the AFR is getting a little leaner than I want. It's only 1AFR leaner, so sitting at around 15.7 instead of 14.7, but I'm quite picky. The reason for the heat is because I'm running a single GT4294R turbocharger that's non-ceramic with no turbo blanket/wrapping on the down pipe. The fuel lines and right hand side of the bay is heat wrapped well but this isn't really helping things with the air intake which does tend to get hot. This brings me to my next subject: -

What are the thoughts on wrapping and turbo blankets? I hear that wrapping can cause cracks but haven't really heard anything bad about the decent turbo blankets. DEi are supposedly good manufacturers of turbo blankets but quite expensive.

If anyone has any comments or suggestions on a type of turbo blanket, I'd be massively grateful!

I've just started experimenting with turbo blankets and heat wrap, currently have my mates 33 dump/front pipe wrapped, with a $40 turbo blanket and it makes a big difference, he had the same problem, you just could not put your hand on the pipe leading over the engine into the plenum it was incredibly hot, also his strut tower (turbo side) and strut brace would heat up it was ridiculous, now that problem has almost gone away thanks to some cheap wrap and a cheap blanket.

No idea how long it will last but it appears to be good quality stuff, it has been on for only 1 decent drive, so can't report on longevity.

Your setup is all you need. The wrap and blanket will make a huge difference. No need to ceramic coat as the wrap and blanket is much more effective to reduce under bonnet temps especially if you wrap down to the cat. Ceramic coating just looks prettier.

has anybody tried bonnet spacers?

I haven't. But the problem is the back of the bonnet is tyoically a low pressure area, so if you raise it or add a vent at the back air will come in there. Which from a generally getting fresh air blowing around the place perspective is a good thing, but it will negatively impact the amount of air coming through the radiator and intercooler. How much? Don't know.

Whilst that will probably reduce the engine bay temp a bit, and seem better to the non scientific approach of touching the rocker covers or plenum, whether it actually aids cooling the engine is questionable and could actually make it worse, as the radiator

And intercooler might not work as well.

End of the day its pretty easy to chuck some spacers on and see how you go. I would be inclined to tape some string around the area to see which way the air is flowing. Or streamers, they look heaps cool on cars.

I used 15mm bonnet spacers and removed the rubber liner just in front of the windshield. This was an old boosted honda prelude I owned many years ago but it made a few degrees of difference to coolant temps on the track for sure

  • Like 1

Hi!

So my next DIY project is to stop using the standard air temp sensor, which I believe is actually a water temp sensor. I actually read on this forum that the GM sensor is a pretty good alternative with a resistor in parallel (using powerfc so can't modify resistor values) if you can plumb it into an area of the system that doesn't get so heat soaked. Thinking just after the intercooler which is actually cold piping even after driving for many miles; in comparison to the hot to touch air intake plenum.

That's not really heat soak from under bonnet temps. That's just because it's bolted to the head and adsorbing heat... If you want to alter that you need to use a phelonic gasket or whatever they are called to insulate it from the head and it'll be cool.

The factory sensor is also quite slow to react, but after 5-10mins you'll see the IT temp is not actually that much higher than ambient. In the half a second the air goes through the plenum I can't see it picking up 30 degrees or anything.

  • Like 1

I haven't. But the problem is the back of the bonnet is tyoically a low pressure area, so if you raise it or add a vent at the back air will come in there. Which from a generally getting fresh air blowing around the place perspective is a good thing, but it will negatively impact the amount of air coming through the radiator and intercooler. How much? Don't know.

Whilst that will probably reduce the engine bay temp a bit, and seem better to the non scientific approach of touching the rocker covers or plenum, whether it actually aids cooling the engine is questionable and could actually make it worse, as the radiator

And intercooler might not work as well.

End of the day its pretty easy to chuck some spacers on and see how you go. I would be inclined to tape some string around the area to see which way the air is flowing. Or streamers, they look heaps cool on cars.

i'll give it a try...i've bought some 10mm spacers and i also have a gktech cooling panel...its not very scientific as i really only watch water temp....but i usually pop the engine bay after a long drive and it will be interesting to see if everything is still as hot to touch (obviously not the really hot bits)

Also a front end undertray will create negative pressure near the sump which has proven very effect in engine bay temps and also reduce turbulence in the engine bay to increase cooling efficiency of the intercooler and radiator. There are a few tests done that back this up. I think autospeed saw up to 10 degree drop from memory.

  • 8 months later...

It's a bit late but I thought I'd share an intake temp sensor I have found that fits in the stock position m12x1.5

It's long enough to stick out in the air stream and has an open element so reacts quickly.

531991_150.jpg

http://www.finjector.com/verkkokauppa/eng/intake_air_temp_sensor_long_25_mm_open_type_fast_element_for_turbo_engines_m12x1_5-p-531991-28/

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
    • It was gonna take much longer for the 440cc so I'd thought I'd risk it with the 550cc. They finally arrived and I couldn't wait any longer (I could but I was quite excited after 2 months) and installed them myself. Removed the old injectors, inserted the new and connected everything up. Before starting the car, I tuned the injector size from the factory 270cc to 550cc using Nistune.   This did some of the calculations automatically which catered for the TIM. The latency however did not seem to change. Deatschwerks have the tuning data available for each injector online, and I had a look at it. It has a table which relates to latency according to pressure and voltage (see below image). Nistune requires the 14v value, but I am unsure of which pressure value to look at (my lack of knowledge and experience have something to do with this). The highlighted value is close to my current latency which is 760µs. It is for 14v which makes sense, and the pressure is 31.6 Psi.   I still gave the car a test drive to see how it goes, and honestly it has never felt so powerful before (and some people say the RB20DE is very weak?). I really enjoyed the drive. Side note; The injectors are quite noisy, which someone mentioned before. This does not really bother me however. I will still ask my mechanic to have a look at it and perhaps ask a tuner to fine tune it if they have the knowledge.
    • Also true. But imagine not wanting new injectors? Imagine wanting to use 30 year old injectors?
×
×
  • Create New...