Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

So my next DIY project is to stop using the standard air temp sensor, which I believe is actually a water temp sensor. I actually read on this forum that the GM sensor is a pretty good alternative with a resistor in parallel (using powerfc so can't modify resistor values) if you can plumb it into an area of the system that doesn't get so heat soaked. Thinking just after the intercooler which is actually cold piping even after driving for many miles; in comparison to the hot to touch air intake plenum. I'm planning to do this in the next few weeks, so I will post a walkthrough of this like I did with my AAC cleaning.

This should help the tuning process as currently, after driving 50miles/80km, I'm having to retune slightly because the AFR is getting a little leaner than I want. It's only 1AFR leaner, so sitting at around 15.7 instead of 14.7, but I'm quite picky. The reason for the heat is because I'm running a single GT4294R turbocharger that's non-ceramic with no turbo blanket/wrapping on the down pipe. The fuel lines and right hand side of the bay is heat wrapped well but this isn't really helping things with the air intake which does tend to get hot. This brings me to my next subject: -

What are the thoughts on wrapping and turbo blankets? I hear that wrapping can cause cracks but haven't really heard anything bad about the decent turbo blankets. DEi are supposedly good manufacturers of turbo blankets but quite expensive.

If anyone has any comments or suggestions on a type of turbo blanket, I'd be massively grateful!

I've just started experimenting with turbo blankets and heat wrap, currently have my mates 33 dump/front pipe wrapped, with a $40 turbo blanket and it makes a big difference, he had the same problem, you just could not put your hand on the pipe leading over the engine into the plenum it was incredibly hot, also his strut tower (turbo side) and strut brace would heat up it was ridiculous, now that problem has almost gone away thanks to some cheap wrap and a cheap blanket.

No idea how long it will last but it appears to be good quality stuff, it has been on for only 1 decent drive, so can't report on longevity.

Your setup is all you need. The wrap and blanket will make a huge difference. No need to ceramic coat as the wrap and blanket is much more effective to reduce under bonnet temps especially if you wrap down to the cat. Ceramic coating just looks prettier.

has anybody tried bonnet spacers?

I haven't. But the problem is the back of the bonnet is tyoically a low pressure area, so if you raise it or add a vent at the back air will come in there. Which from a generally getting fresh air blowing around the place perspective is a good thing, but it will negatively impact the amount of air coming through the radiator and intercooler. How much? Don't know.

Whilst that will probably reduce the engine bay temp a bit, and seem better to the non scientific approach of touching the rocker covers or plenum, whether it actually aids cooling the engine is questionable and could actually make it worse, as the radiator

And intercooler might not work as well.

End of the day its pretty easy to chuck some spacers on and see how you go. I would be inclined to tape some string around the area to see which way the air is flowing. Or streamers, they look heaps cool on cars.

I used 15mm bonnet spacers and removed the rubber liner just in front of the windshield. This was an old boosted honda prelude I owned many years ago but it made a few degrees of difference to coolant temps on the track for sure

  • Like 1

Hi!

So my next DIY project is to stop using the standard air temp sensor, which I believe is actually a water temp sensor. I actually read on this forum that the GM sensor is a pretty good alternative with a resistor in parallel (using powerfc so can't modify resistor values) if you can plumb it into an area of the system that doesn't get so heat soaked. Thinking just after the intercooler which is actually cold piping even after driving for many miles; in comparison to the hot to touch air intake plenum.

That's not really heat soak from under bonnet temps. That's just because it's bolted to the head and adsorbing heat... If you want to alter that you need to use a phelonic gasket or whatever they are called to insulate it from the head and it'll be cool.

The factory sensor is also quite slow to react, but after 5-10mins you'll see the IT temp is not actually that much higher than ambient. In the half a second the air goes through the plenum I can't see it picking up 30 degrees or anything.

  • Like 1

I haven't. But the problem is the back of the bonnet is tyoically a low pressure area, so if you raise it or add a vent at the back air will come in there. Which from a generally getting fresh air blowing around the place perspective is a good thing, but it will negatively impact the amount of air coming through the radiator and intercooler. How much? Don't know.

Whilst that will probably reduce the engine bay temp a bit, and seem better to the non scientific approach of touching the rocker covers or plenum, whether it actually aids cooling the engine is questionable and could actually make it worse, as the radiator

And intercooler might not work as well.

End of the day its pretty easy to chuck some spacers on and see how you go. I would be inclined to tape some string around the area to see which way the air is flowing. Or streamers, they look heaps cool on cars.

i'll give it a try...i've bought some 10mm spacers and i also have a gktech cooling panel...its not very scientific as i really only watch water temp....but i usually pop the engine bay after a long drive and it will be interesting to see if everything is still as hot to touch (obviously not the really hot bits)

Also a front end undertray will create negative pressure near the sump which has proven very effect in engine bay temps and also reduce turbulence in the engine bay to increase cooling efficiency of the intercooler and radiator. There are a few tests done that back this up. I think autospeed saw up to 10 degree drop from memory.

  • 8 months later...

It's a bit late but I thought I'd share an intake temp sensor I have found that fits in the stock position m12x1.5

It's long enough to stick out in the air stream and has an open element so reacts quickly.

531991_150.jpg

http://www.finjector.com/verkkokauppa/eng/intake_air_temp_sensor_long_25_mm_open_type_fast_element_for_turbo_engines_m12x1_5-p-531991-28/

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...