Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You can say the statement is shit all you like, but if you actually have a decent engine builder that checks the seat pressure you will find you can't get enough seat pressure without the creating a coil bind situation because they are made to soft from factory

You can say the statement is shit all you like, but if you actually have a decent engine builder that checks the seat pressure you will find you can't get enough seat pressure without the creating a coil bind situation because they are made to soft from factory

I agree but that's because you chose the wrong spring it's not japan's fault that the spring don't work it's yours.

your statement still makes no sense

Edited by mr skidz

we have all used different brand and model of springs and they all have the same issue, it's ok we've made the mistakes and are happy to pass on the information. If you still choose to buy them and then end up paying twice, I really don't care cause I've learnt from my mistakes and won't be making them again

Well since you're tomei springs were to soft what are they rated at and what were they measured at, tell me what the difference was because I have some here that I haven't used yet and I plan on checking them before installing them if you are correct then I will bow to your comment

Might have been 60 was 3 years ago, but you're welcome to ask Joey or piggaz about their experience with Japanese valve springs. Make sure you ask Joey tho cause his is definitely a story you'll want to hear

lol is that what you had before?

if so what rate springs did you settle for piggaz ?

That's what I installed, yes. I don't know how it got past me but when the stupid thing was carrying on like a two bob tart on the dyno I went and saw the bloke that put the engine together. That's what the seat pressures were. We

ripped them out and put in a camtech single spring and Ti retainer package (which fit SO much better then the previous stuff), put it back on the dyno and issue was gone.

19 psi, 6500 rpm it would float at. Go half throttle it would go to 8000, give it more boost and it would fluff around at 5000 rpm.

Best bit was the camtech package was so much cheaper than the jap stuff, fit as it should and did the job.

Never tested what the seat pressures were as the swap was done in the car. But it went onto hold 30 psi no problems.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...