Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The most important aspects that the greddy intake kit addresses are the cold side merge before the FMIC, and the tendancy of stock intake (black rubber) to partially collapse and restrict intake.

The intake path is also much smoother for airflow.

Strangely the fixing the merge reduces turbo shuffle but on AFM setups the smoother intake of the hardipe kit has been know to increase it!

If you have a 33 or 34 I would personally recommend keeping the stock airbox, and either modding the stock twin turbo pipe or lashing out on the nismo item.

Intake to airbox can be firmed up be KTS hardpipe kit or one of the reinforced silicon pipes floating around.

For me on my 32, I scored the greddy kit cheap second hand and because I was changing to MAP I could ditch the poxy foam filters for some (larger) quality K&N items.

For the average punter I don't think there's any noticable power/response changes, but intake noise is much more noticeable as is OEM recirc/bov... this is a pro/con depending on your preference.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Update:

Installed Tomei dumps this week ( Bought HPI dumps but couldn't fit on my R34 Gt-R, 15mm too short, would only fit R32/R33 apparently) and "hi flowed" the twin cats of my Nismo exhaust.

Result:

Couldn't tell that much difference, low to mid range was still laggy like before, not much untill 5k rpm. The pick up might be slightly better but can't say for sure as I've only driven it for a short while.

Best thing gained it now shoots little flames on soft limiter cut. Will be installing intercooler hard pipes next week, hopefully this will make more of a difference.

Update:

Installed Tomei dumps this week ( Bought HPI dumps but couldn't fit on my R34 Gt-R, 15mm too short, would only fit R32/R33 apparently) and "hi flowed" the twin cats of my Nismo exhaust.

Result:

Couldn't tell that much difference, low to mid range was still laggy like before, not much untill 5k rpm. The pick up might be slightly better but can't say for sure as I've only driven it for a short while.

Best thing gained it now shoots little flames on soft limiter cut. Will be installing intercooler hard pipes next week, hopefully this will make more of a difference.

twin cats?

why 2 of them?

I don't want the one I got already lol

who tuned it and what they say it could be

twin cats?

why 2 of them?

I don't want the one I got already lol

who tuned it and what they say it could be

Twin cats because it's a Nismo exhaust twin 2.5 inch into 3, still saving up for a bigger exhaust, so this will do for now. Car was previously tuned by JEM and will be on the dyno soon once all the parts are in so hopefully a tune will fix things up a little.

Doubtless been asked and answered but what boost controller do you have. Need to be sure the wastegates are shut unless you need them to be otherwise.

Boost controller are profec B II, not too sure how too adjust it, so gonna leave it to the tuner.

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem.

You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem.

You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

Shit son, haven't heard from you for a while

  • 3 weeks later...

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem.

You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

Bought it from just jap, even they didn't belive me. But putting stock next to HPI and Tomei you can see that HPI was a bit shorter, unsure why, so they happily swap it for me.

  • 1 month later...

Update: Car has been tuned and dynoed.

First run: With only thing changed to the car being tomei dumps and 'high flow' cats. Not much difference at low and high revs, made extra 4 kw at peak, this could be due to change in temp or other variables. But did gain some mid range torque and peak boost happening maybe a bit earlier, nothing spectacular but the dumps and cats did make a small difference.

Second run: Now installed with Nismo hard pipe and Nismo 100mm intercooler, 1000cc injectors, 450L fuel pump. Peak power gained of 17kw to 313kw atw at same 19psi. More power and torque across the rev range, biggest difference is peak boost happens at 4550 rpm instead of 5000 rpm.

Drive: Car definitely feels more more responsive and pulls harder, response is still a bit slow compared to stock turbos but it's much better than before.

Cost: $1000 for every 100rpm of response or $300 for every kw gained, f expensive.

Conclusion: I think we are half way there, next on the list will be bigger exhaust and turbo inlet pipes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...