Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The most important aspects that the greddy intake kit addresses are the cold side merge before the FMIC, and the tendancy of stock intake (black rubber) to partially collapse and restrict intake.

The intake path is also much smoother for airflow.

Strangely the fixing the merge reduces turbo shuffle but on AFM setups the smoother intake of the hardipe kit has been know to increase it!

If you have a 33 or 34 I would personally recommend keeping the stock airbox, and either modding the stock twin turbo pipe or lashing out on the nismo item.

Intake to airbox can be firmed up be KTS hardpipe kit or one of the reinforced silicon pipes floating around.

For me on my 32, I scored the greddy kit cheap second hand and because I was changing to MAP I could ditch the poxy foam filters for some (larger) quality K&N items.

For the average punter I don't think there's any noticable power/response changes, but intake noise is much more noticeable as is OEM recirc/bov... this is a pro/con depending on your preference.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...

Update:

Installed Tomei dumps this week ( Bought HPI dumps but couldn't fit on my R34 Gt-R, 15mm too short, would only fit R32/R33 apparently) and "hi flowed" the twin cats of my Nismo exhaust.

Result:

Couldn't tell that much difference, low to mid range was still laggy like before, not much untill 5k rpm. The pick up might be slightly better but can't say for sure as I've only driven it for a short while.

Best thing gained it now shoots little flames on soft limiter cut. Will be installing intercooler hard pipes next week, hopefully this will make more of a difference.

Update:

Installed Tomei dumps this week ( Bought HPI dumps but couldn't fit on my R34 Gt-R, 15mm too short, would only fit R32/R33 apparently) and "hi flowed" the twin cats of my Nismo exhaust.

Result:

Couldn't tell that much difference, low to mid range was still laggy like before, not much untill 5k rpm. The pick up might be slightly better but can't say for sure as I've only driven it for a short while.

Best thing gained it now shoots little flames on soft limiter cut. Will be installing intercooler hard pipes next week, hopefully this will make more of a difference.

twin cats?

why 2 of them?

I don't want the one I got already lol

who tuned it and what they say it could be

twin cats?

why 2 of them?

I don't want the one I got already lol

who tuned it and what they say it could be

Twin cats because it's a Nismo exhaust twin 2.5 inch into 3, still saving up for a bigger exhaust, so this will do for now. Car was previously tuned by JEM and will be on the dyno soon once all the parts are in so hopefully a tune will fix things up a little.

Doubtless been asked and answered but what boost controller do you have. Need to be sure the wastegates are shut unless you need them to be otherwise.

Boost controller are profec B II, not too sure how too adjust it, so gonna leave it to the tuner.

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem.

You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem.

You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

Shit son, haven't heard from you for a while

  • 3 weeks later...

Hpi dumps not fitting is news to me. I bought some that were originally on a 33GTR, bolted straight up to my 34GTR setup (GTX2860's now -5's) no problem.

You sure they didn't try to fit them back to front lol?! as they are different for front and rear.

Bought it from just jap, even they didn't belive me. But putting stock next to HPI and Tomei you can see that HPI was a bit shorter, unsure why, so they happily swap it for me.

  • 1 month later...

Update: Car has been tuned and dynoed.

First run: With only thing changed to the car being tomei dumps and 'high flow' cats. Not much difference at low and high revs, made extra 4 kw at peak, this could be due to change in temp or other variables. But did gain some mid range torque and peak boost happening maybe a bit earlier, nothing spectacular but the dumps and cats did make a small difference.

Second run: Now installed with Nismo hard pipe and Nismo 100mm intercooler, 1000cc injectors, 450L fuel pump. Peak power gained of 17kw to 313kw atw at same 19psi. More power and torque across the rev range, biggest difference is peak boost happens at 4550 rpm instead of 5000 rpm.

Drive: Car definitely feels more more responsive and pulls harder, response is still a bit slow compared to stock turbos but it's much better than before.

Cost: $1000 for every 100rpm of response or $300 for every kw gained, f expensive.

Conclusion: I think we are half way there, next on the list will be bigger exhaust and turbo inlet pipes.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...