Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Im gonna service my car this sat and would like suggestions on parts to get for the following and any helpful comments. Im doing this myself as im a tight ass :) and hoping it will only cost me 1/2 of what the workshop would charge :wassup:. Plus i luv playing around with the car. Ive posted ut here in NSW because U guys might suggest where i can also get the suggested parts.

My engine has done 166,000 km's. So im gonna wake up at early and start pulling out the parts to be replaced/cleaned.

Here is a breakdown..

(50 bux) Engine Oil - Suggestions please??

(10 bux) Oil Filter - Ill be using a generic nissan brand

(10 bux) Petrol Filter - Ill be using a generic nissan brand

(7.50 bux) Brake fluid - Honda 15 bux for 750 ml.

(7.50 bux) Clutch fluid - Using the Brake fluid above

( < 100 bux) Gearbox oil - Redline (Damn these things are expensive 110 bux) Can u guys suggest any others of similar quality but less expensive?

Pulling the cover off the gearstick and gonna start pouring it in.

(15 bux)Radiator Flushed - 15 bux for some radiator fluid my mechanical mate has bought in a massive drum.

(24 bux copper or 106 bux irridium) Spark Plugs - Ive heard these things perform the same as the irridium ones unless u pushing 200+rwkw and im also gonna gap em 8mm. Unless u guys have a different opinion of using these this please let me know.

(90 bux) Injectors - Pulling the cover off and taking these babies out. Getting em ultrasonically cleaned for 15 bux each.

All Up cost at a workshop i have been qouted (540 -600) bux

Im estimating my cost will be - 320 bux (using copper sparkies)

BTW Can u suggest anything i need to change? Since im there?.

Cheers

cef.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45402-complete-servicing-an-rb20-diy/
Share on other sites

and original nissan oil filter should only cost ya round $6

and your petrol filter (not original) will prob cost round the $20 mark

and i know the redline oil is good, but i have doubts bout it coz im guessing its pretty thin

and also pressuming the cars 10yo, mayb sumthing thicker and cheaper would b the go.

im not 100%

ok

get motul turbolight 4100 for $46 including a genuine filter @ Just Jap in Kirrawee, a lot of people swear by this stuff and never have problems (points at me as well)

use copper plugs BCPES-11 gapped to 0.8mm (6 will cost around $20)

redline oil.... $110 and the gearbox is worth $500... your call.

Good luck.

Evan

Motul 8100 >4100

4100 isnt 100% Synthetic so I don't use it

Also the Reline is VERY THICK and if you get the Lightweight Shockproof it should be blue in clour. Synchro's in a bottle is a good way to describe it. My car is a 1991 model and the Redline has made an unbelieveable difference

Pulling the cover off the gearstick and gonna start pouring it in.

:cheers: that's not how you put the gearbox oil back in. GenesisR32 did a tutorial on it in the FAQ forum...

I'm using Motul 4100 oil in my R32. For the gearbox oil if it's not too bad you can get away with Castrol VMX80. I'm currently using that stuff and it's made a hell of a lot of difference with my gearbox but there is still a slight issue going into 1st from stationary.

Where are you getting your injectors cleaned?

8100 is quite expensive ($80?) isnt it?

Thats a lot of money for oil on a car making 160rwkw, maybe if it was 300rwkw+ but $80 every 5000km may be too much for some. Fully synthetic is not always the best in an old engine.

Evan

eek3.gif

:D that's not how you put the gearbox oil back in. GenesisR32 did a tutorial on it in the FAQ forum...

Where are you getting your injectors cleaned?

Yeah i know how to change it.. thanx anywayz.. Just didnt want to go into detail. Heck i put the clutch in and serviced the gearbox without a hoist last time so i must at least know how to change gbox oil. :)

Im getting my injectors cleaned at place in fairfield (Mekong auto spares) 15 bux a pop and ultrasonically cleaned. Thev have done a few of peeps i know and no probs with theirs.

cef.

BTW as evan said my car is only making 160rwkw.. not 300 rwkw.. So i dont think top of the range stuff is required here.

when you get the fuel filter, if it is not a genuine nissan part, check that the top pipe (outlet) has a 90* bend in it, i got a RYCO or somthing one last time, and it was the right part number but it diddn't have the correct outlet pipe, so i had to modify it before putting it in.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...