Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well I finally got around to getting a PFC so I could make the most of my setup. The turbo was sourced for $600 from Rigoli in Sydney when I killed one. I was told it was modified a bit. Suggestions are that a HKS 2350 (correct me if wrong, I am no turbo fetishist) will supply this kind of performance so for the price I am real happy. Since the turbine spec is unknown I will remain limited to 15psi max.

The build consisted of:

Arias Forged Pistons 1.0 mm OS (1300)

GTR rods with fresh bolts (400)

ACL heat treated race bearings (120)

Balance, clean and O ring block etc. including straighten of crank and lightening. (1100)

GTR fuel pump (180)

Malpassi Rising Rate fuel reg (120)

Standard head gasket (90)

Cam belt (90)

RB30 seals (60)

JustJap 5 puck sprung brass clutch (550)

Hybrid Monster FMIC (700) piping (120) new Mig welder (700)

Autohouse Tsukasaki PFC (secret)

Dump and front combo 3" with Fujitsubo "Jasma" 3" stainless system and racing cat also fitted.

Total of the critical bits was 4200 (4800 with turbo) . My labour was 25 hours.

It was running OK sometimes on the stock 'puter but I had to fiddle timing and TPS and idle so not optimal and I couldn't gurantee the performance without doing some changes that left it idling at almost 2000rpm.

I went to see Rob at Creatd near Broadmeadows for the tune, which was a co-effort (mostly Rob but good to see 2 pros working together) with Danny of Brusciani Racing as they have the dyno as part of a working arrangement for fabrication. Brusciani have probably the fastest street registered VL turbo in the country with a high 8 and they intend to hit the Calder strip tomorrow night (9 Jul 04).

The result of the tune was an awesomely driveable (4th gear dyno chart) 220rwkw non shootout mode with peak boost of 15psi, so there is margin for dyno-queen numbers on shootout :). Tunes like this can be had for a few hours effort and about $250-300 depending on the starting point. I also had the redline lifted to almost 8000rpm as the engine was built to take it. Power drops over 7000 but it is for the track where I can avoid gearchanges and just rev a bit higher between corners.

While there is nothing quite like doing it yourself, tuning is one for the experts and this dyno run was repeated time after time with the great AFR's displayed. I can absolutely recommend Creatd for their tuning and was impressed by the range of cars in the shop and the clever ideas that Rob can apply to your machine.

If the turbo eventually goes I will chase a bit more power with a brand name blower but will also do the injectors. Still have some handling to sort out. The quest continues.

The other change I am looking at is a set of GTR turbos and perhaps plenum and throttlebodies. I spent a bit of time yesterday measuring up and comparing and it won't be too hard at all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45419-mongrel-turbo-makes-220rwkw/
Share on other sites

Good pickup as always Enrico, thanks. Most of the runs were fourth and a couple in second and third. I do know this run wasn't taken to 8000rpm as the power drop was too great to try to improve. It's only there for track flexibility. A better turbo will make greater use of the higher limit I expect.

The good news is I don't have a hand controller so won't be tempted to fiddle :D

Pardon my cynicism but I expect that most turbo places would have no idea if they are honest, try to tell me it's crap to buy a better one if they are not honest and still expect me to pay for the privelege either way. I like the element of uncertainty and if she dies, I've got 3 other cars to drive until the twin turbo setup is installed. And why do that (TT) you ask? Because I want to.....just for fun.

Can't bag it till ya try it.

Why not :mad:

A few will flame me for this, but drags is all about hooking up off the line, time a car between 100km/h ->200km/h (or 60km/h ->200km/h) thats the measure of performance that impresses me. :)

Wait a week or 10 and my car may be ready, ill race ya for pink slips :flamed:

yumm-i .. looks very track capable and i am sure that is exactly what you built it for :mad:

great to see the prices laid out there for others to go by in future just as a general guide to know what they are in for :) 8000 redline huh? should scare a few sr20's with that one.

The 25hrs labour was obviously ontop of those prices?

The good news is I don't have a hand controller so won't be tempted to fiddle

:werd:

i think the 25hr labour was his own.

also in regard to 3rd vs 4th gear dynos, power is exaclty the same, as confirmed by the dyno on my bedroom floor.

Looks like a tru track warrior, good mid range, and phat curve, plenty of power...... for now :)

Geoff, do u have an exhaust side adj. cam gear. COuld be a great investment if u dont :mad:

Excuse my ignorance but are the AFR's abit sorta howya goin ? ?

Roy: Your thing is farken quick.... from 5,000rpm onwards :( Would take me quite some time to get used to that sorta power. I'd need someone to tell me what to do coz i'd be too busy hanging onto the steering wheel :)

Benm, tell me what u think is wrong with them.

Too me they look excellent, nice and safe, which is what geoff would need being he is intending to use the car on the track alot. a perfectly tuned car, if there is such a thing is not goin to have a flat afr curve, it just doesnt work like that.

so, id say no the afrs arent a bit how ya goin :(

Don't really know coz i'm still learning that side of things.

I was just of the impression that a nice flat afr would represent a quality tune (amongst many other aspects of tuning of course). I've seen some dyno charts that are near perfectly horizontal and others that jump up n down like mountain ranges.

Live and learn I guess. . .

Benm, i know whay you are saying and i think the dyno run may have been done with the car cruising at part throttle at approx 50km/h (closed loop 14.7:1 A/F) the floored it causing the ECU to go open loop where it seems to run mid - high 11.5:1 A/Fs which is where most seem to be tuned to.

Some other runs may be driven up to 50km/h , off the throttle, then gassed/floored causing the ECO to run open loop straight away. That MAY be an explanation.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...