Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a front mount return flow intercooler on my r32 GTS-T. It came with the car and I do not know the maker. It is not as big as a regular front mount intercooler.

What hp are return flow front mount intercoolers generally good for? My goal is 400 hp for my car.

It depends on the brand and design obviously, can you post a pic? Should be good for 300kw or so, if it doesn't make it to your goal, change it then?

It depends on the brand and design obviously, can you post a pic? Should be good for 300kw or so, if it doesn't make it to your goal, change it then?

Hello

Dont know how to post a pic, tried to link my Facebook but doesnt work.

Some of them do restrict flow, that causes a massive differences before and after the cooler. It depends on the amount of boost you wish to run also. For the best result always get proper front mount cooler with 600x300x100mm core.

I'm making 300wkw from the stock evo 7 cooler, and 350awkw through the Stagea auto on a cut down Jap core 600x220x76. Obviously you can get better results the larger you go, especially if the cooler pipes are large diameter, but there is a price to pay, and transient response will suffer. Peak KW is only part of the story.

If you plan to lean on the car hard, such as dyno and track work, go for the largest and thickest cooler you can fit without cutting bits of the car off. Otherwise you would be better off keeping what you have for the road most likely, best bang for buck I say...

Should be, but like I said, it's hard to say without seeing a pic, even then we are only guessing.

Ok I think this should work.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203704850013121&set=pb.1573802608.-2207520000.1424919624.&type=3&theater

Here is a link to a picture of the car and intercooler.

post-134327-0-42189300-1424920494_thumb.jpg

Edited by yoshiii335

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post

or

2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link

Does it have a brand name on it?

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post

or

2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link

Does it have a brand name on it?

Thanks

I found a way to link my FB picture of it.

It does not have a name on it. Dont know it has worn off or not.

post-134327-0-51958600-1424920546_thumb.jpg

Edited by yoshiii335

Some of them do restrict flow, that causes a massive differences before and after the cooler. It depends on the amount of boost you wish to run also. For the best result always get proper front mount cooler with 600x300x100mm core.

What brands do you find to be restrictive Stao?

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post

or

2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link

Does it have a brand name on it?

Picture is posted

What brands do you find to be restrictive Stao?

Some of the JJR ones, and also Blitz. For this reason I've installed a blitz return flow on my current R34 and curious to see what it does. I've noticed some of the blitz coolers has very narrow tube, mine doesn't, but it has very tightly packed fins inside those tubes.

I've done a test based on 600x300x68mm and 600x300x100mm coolers. There are no differences in response, while the IT was 10 degrees less with the 100mm, that lead to 10kws gain top end. For a cooler setup that what I recommend.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
    • That's some really horrible design with the way it's cut/shaped! Is there much damage to the box that failed in? IE, new fork and you can go again, or is it a total rebuild again? Id be trying to build that piece from scratch, and getting some reliefs added in the corner to hopefully stop breakage, and then swapping boxes ASAP, and then doing the same to the currently good working box. I'm assuming hard shifts have not been friendly to it!
×
×
  • Create New...