Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Good notes Adam!

Definitely one of the biggest themes of the day was how the driveline is designed with shock absorbing capability, and changing this with stiffer components can lead to damage if the whole system isn't appropriately matched.

Yeah i reckon its something like this below - area under the curve is the same, but peak load/force is much lower with a soft (sprung) clutch. Engineering 101.

114937-largest_asphalt_545.jpg

  • Like 1

Cheers guys for another great tech arvo.

Thanks to Award, Terry and Trish :)

Learnt some new things and got in some laughs as well.

Thanks Adam for the notes as well!
Will be looking forward to the next one :)

Was a damn shame I missed this, with both sleeping in and my calendar reminder not set properly I got the reminder 10 min's before the event :(

"Solid mounting of diff cradles also increases rigidity in a way that's detrimental (for the gearbox? or drive train more generally?), so make especially sure you use a sprung center clutch if you have a solidly mounted diff cradle."

This is good to know as I've just fitted a diff craddle and will be putting in the g'box brace in soon too, guess with the brass button clutch this is going to destroy my gearbox prematurely. :) JOY hahaa

oh, and lol.. not sure how many people found out in the day, but it turns out Terry and Trish live 2 doors down from me. It didn't click until we went outside for the ridiculously big spread they put on and i saw their car.

all in all, i think i learnt more from this tech session than any of the others.... thanks to all involved in organizing and putting the day on.

shift sedately and you will be fine, so no time attack shifts for you just yet!

I'm sure you'll find it's not so much how you shift the box as it is how you reengage the clutch that destroys boxes, this will apply to both going up AND down gears, should be done just like a motorbike, find friction point then release clutch not find floor then release clutch

  • Like 1

The other bit I got out of the day (more informative than anything) is that the only major difference between the series 3 BCNR33 boxes and other 32/33 boxes is that the syncros are "pad-type" rather than held in by circlips and also have a stronger (bigger) 5th gear synchro making them the design of choice if you have the option.

He also recommended that cleaning the gearbox can be done by running ATF in it for a while. Could be useful for those wanting to move away from smurfsblood which is nearly impossible to remove.

It was also interesting that Terry mentioned there is not a major difference in the various LSDs out there however for big power/time attack cars he did seem to recommend the Cusco up front. Seems he can also modify the standard ones making it potentially a cheaper option.

I'm sure you'll find it's not so much how you shift the box as it is how you reengage the clutch that destroys boxes, this will apply to both going up AND down gears, should be done just like a motorbike, find friction point then release clutch not find floor then release clutch

brass button clutch what friction point ?? HAHA

It was also interesting that Terry mentioned there is not a major difference in the various LSDs out there however for big power/time attack cars he did seem to recommend the Cusco up front. Seems he can also modify the standard ones making it potentially a cheaper option.

Yeah i think we was saying that like gearboxes, which are pretty much all the same in how they work, the factory, Nismo, Cusco etc LSDs are also pretty much the same. He can setup the rear to be tighter, however, since the after market ones are larger/beefier they will last longer.

I destroyed 5 brass buttons in 2 years due to the torque and everyone of them had a friction point

The distance between off and on was very very small though

no worries I have no torque HAHA




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...