Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Will need to be repaired and blue slipped to get off written off register I believe??

I had a car written off and paid out 3500 but only cost 400 to buy it back... Might be worth it depending on repair costs.

first quote was 7600 :/ reason why im so concerned about this is because ive just put about 7k into the motor

What do you reckon they will say dale? I still have to get one more quote an see what happens. Has anyone ever fought a insurance company in regards to writing a car off due to hail? Because by the look ofthe first quote im going to be right on the boarder line of being written off.

I'm betting that they'll write it off; it's only insured for $4k, and this is the last year we were going to fully comp insure it.

Because it's with Shannon's; I'm hoping that they'll pay it out, let me retain the "wreck" and then simply restrict us to 3rd party property insurance in future.

Could always buy it back? Not sure on how that process works though

With Shannon's I have first refusal for the wreck; but my repairer reckons that they'll probably just let me have it with a slightly reduced payout, to account for the buy back value.

Just read through it. Yeah i can buy the car back for salvage and have first pick. Still dont know what % of value they work off though

They'll have it valued for auction, when I bought mine the valuer told me what he was going to tell the insurance company it was worth (sneakily) and they offered the same price to me.. ie no mark up

Yes, it's insured (as a Genki) for $17,400, so the damage doesn't come into the 80 percentile whereby it could become a write-off.

Volvo XC T6 - $3,400 for PDR only.

* Note that after the panels are all smooth again...

a) all dented mouldings are mandatory replacement items so that no water can enter any crevices

* But...

b) any scratches created by the hail are not covered and thus; no polishing is included in a hail claim

* After I get the cars back, we'll have to see about that! I shall need proper lighting to reflect and refract any scratches, because unless the paint is in its former condition, I believe that according to the PDS, I have a case for complaint.

I'm not surprised by the damage to the Mazda Terry; it's comparable to the last time Shell's car was damaged by similar sized hail.

Interesting how much less pdr is required on the XC60; clearly a lot more high tensile steel panelwork on it.

I agree regarding scratches from hail; the car MUST be returned to it's pre-hail damaged condition, for the repairs to be considered complete.

If the roof required replacement; they couldn't just hand it back in guide coat.

Hope you have a good outcome Adrian!

Still waiting for am answer on ours, Shannon's rang yesterday to ask when the car was going to be presented for assessment; it's already been viewed and photographed, our repairer had obviously neglected to submit his quote.

I'm wondering whether he is the right man for the job...




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Working through possible solutions of converting my mechanical speedo.    Anyone know what type of speedo sensor the factory r34 gtr getrag has ? what the output is ? I assume its not a VSS and more a voltage like earlier speedo sensors ? Can an ECU read it ?  
    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
×
×
  • Create New...