Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How we all doing?

Has anyone managed to get performance bracing on a NA Skyline? It doesn't even come with a rear sway bar.

I have a Apexi N1 Evolution Cat Back Exhaust with a 3.5 inch pipe and a 4.5 inch tip so will fitting be an issue?

Thanks for the help guys, just shout if I missed any details.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/454767-na-r34-skyline-performance-bracing/
Share on other sites

No rear sway bar? I find that hard to believe...!

It's true! I thought it may have been removed by the original owner, or the japanese owner, however it's true, there are a few threads about it, however they never really confirmed a kit.

3.5" on an NA, thats a bad idea!

I didn't put it on! But no plans on removing

Firstly, we'll deal with my pet peeve. There's no such thing as a "sway bar". At least not in the context of a car not pulling a trailer. They are anti-roll bars.

Second, ARBs are not "performance bracing". They are just suspension components. NA Skylines are not performance cars. They were sold to Japanese who wanted a RWD Camry and drove them around like RWD Camrys. If you want to "tune" it, go right ahead. Nearly everything you can do to a turbo car you can do to an NA, including fitting a rear ARB. The bolt holes should at least be present in the floor. You just need the bar and the brackets.

"Performance bracing" on Skylines, if by that you mean strut tower braces and the like, are an almost total waste of time. As are most of the other bits of metal you can strap onto the car in various weird and wonderful places. Sure, they all do "something", but almost no-one really needs them. Especially on an NA car.

And I have to concur with 75coupe. Big exhausts on small NA 6s sound like arse crust.

Firstly, we'll deal with my pet peeve. There's no such thing as a "sway bar". At least not in the context of a car not pulling a trailer. They are anti-roll bars.

According to Wikipedia they're the exact same thing.

Second, ARBs are not "performance bracing". They are just suspension components. NA Skylines are not performance cars. They were sold to Japanese who wanted a RWD Camry and drove them around like RWD Camrys. If you want to "tune" it, go right ahead. Nearly everything you can do to a turbo car you can do to an NA, including fitting a rear ARB. The bolt holes should at least be present in the floor. You just need the bar and the brackets.

Okay you don't like the car, cool, but is it really necessary to attack someone else's car? You didn't even answer my question.

"Performance bracing" on Skylines, if by that you mean strut tower braces and the like, are an almost total waste of time. As are most of the other bits of metal you can strap onto the car in various weird and wonderful places. Sure, they all do "something", but almost no-one really needs them. Especially on an NA car.

Sorry, I would have bought a GTR if I could have but I'm just trying to work with what I've got and have some fun with my mates doing it, not trying to break any land speed records or set record times at the nurburgring. If this was about speed and performance I'd just take it to a shop and pay for it.

And I have to concur with 75coupe. Big exhausts on small NA 6s sound like arse crust.

To each his own I guess.

Edited by 00RORY

But is he referring to the sway bay "anti roll bar" or just saying he doesnt have a rear strut tower brace in the boot???

Because without the rear sway it would have very noticeably bad cornering

3.5" exhaust on na would not just sound bad its simply not needed, and would do more bad than good on na...

the term 'sway bar' is perfectly acceptable and I've yet to see anyone confused as to what the term refers to when discussing car related matters. Its name is also accurate, with its function to influence & control the sway/roll of the vee-hickle, as per dictionary definition of sway " To incline or bend to one side;".

Anyway yes you should get one if you don't have one and yes you have a right to be proud of your car but you should keep in mind if you're serious about moving to performance driving you should consider moving onto other options rather than spending a lot on an n/a car which is unlikely to deliver the overall performance result you're after without spending bank-heist loads of cash on it.

Oh, there's nothing wrong at all with perpetuating the use of the incorrect terms for things. Nothing at all. Progressively dumbing down the population is a laudable aim. Go for it.

Sway, by the way, means a side to side motion MUCH more than it means a motion in rotation about an axis, which is what body roll really is. Just try asking a suspension engineer at a race team to calculate the location of the sway axis on his car.

How we all doing?

Has anyone managed to get performance bracing on a NA Skyline? It doesn't even come with a rear sway bar.

I have a Apexi N1 Evolution Cat Back Exhaust with a 3.5 inch pipe and a 4.5 inch tip so will fitting be an issue?

Thanks for the help guys, just shout if I missed any details.

fit the swaybar mate, should help definitely. also look into some cheap but decent coilovers like BC. the cars not going to go particularly fast but you can make it handle very well and when driven properly, still embarrass people in the twisty bits.

good on you for looking properly into the handling of the car. your starting in the right place for modding.

i agree with most people, that exhaust is designed for a turbo engine where the turbo is dampening allot of the noise from the engine and the huge diameter is *atleast could possibly be* needed for the exhaust flow. on an NA is is grossly oversized.

the noise may be to your liking and in that case, cool, but i dare say after a while the drone, bark/farting, and general awfull noises will do your head in. i suggest have a listen to some better options and make a more informed decision. that being said, when i was a p,plater i made all the same usual bad choices :)

Oh, there's nothing wrong at all with perpetuating the use of the incorrect terms for things. Nothing at all. Progressively dumbing down the population is a laudable aim. Go for it.

Sway, by the way, means a side to side motion MUCH more than it means a motion in rotation about an axis, which is what body roll really is. Just try asking a suspension engineer at a race team to calculate the location of the sway axis on his car.

but hang on there G-Money, you're getting confused again with 'your opinion' being the 'correct term' and only possible option. Another equally correct (and for the purposes of sh*tstirring I will say 'more correct') term is 'stabilizer bar'. WHY aren't you calling it by its CORRECT name of stabilizer bar??

Also Vanilla Ice, ever seen a tree swaying in the wind? the upper branches sway in an arc from a lower roll centre, the whole tree doesn't evenly move side to side as one unit.

So you see MC Hammer, it's a petty point that only pedantic mofo's would bother making a deal about, and you've once again made me waste 5 minutes of my lunch break pointing this out.

Although if you would like to tell me how you feel about coilovers I am all ears.

PS Funkmaster Flex I give you full credit for having a fair amount of knowledge about car related stuff as I have said before, and am doing nothing more than trying to get you to not take it so serious, what's it matter if it's called sway bar, not like he's called it a hulahoop rod.

By all means fit a set of Stage II suspension components if you are so inclined but remember it all starts with a set of quality tyres, correctly inflated....and read Gary's thread above labelled "shockabsorber 101"

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...