Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have been talking to different tuners here in Japan and one of them suggested a 2.4 litre upgrade kit for my RB20 Det.

Are these worth it or is it better to build up my 20 with the normal 2 litre? My goal is 400 hp for the street.

I am not going RB25 because of the costs of registering the car, paying the extra to the government for the engine change and the doubling of the yearly road tax fees here which is expensive.

400hp for the street is impossible on a RB20DET. It will be a lag fest.

Since you are in Japan I am assuming you can read Japanese? Go pick up an issue of Hyper-rev regarding the GTS-t, it will say the exact same thing I am about to tell you.

You have three options:

1. 350hp, responsive for street

2. 400hp, lag monster

3. increase displacement

The only real problem I see is that most of the 2.4 litre upgrade kits are no longer available (HKS, Tomei). What exactly was he suggesting you use?

Edited by Matvei27

should be able to make 400hp easy without going built motor and being in Japan when it goes bang it'll still be cheap to replace

He can do it but it won't be fun to drive on the street, and he said he wanted it for the street...so probably not a great idea.

If he doesn't want to pay for a 3 number plate, which the RB25 would require, the RB24 is really the best option he can get.

The problem is availability since the majority of these kits are discontinued.

Edited by Matvei27

There is a state side company that sells kits for it. Here there are still the parts needed for the conversion available.

Which, specifically? The Tomei kit is discontinued, the HKS kit is discontinued...Testarossa still does RB23 and RB24 in Japan but the quality is a bit sketchy from what I have heard.

How does the higher registration fees compare to building a stroker?

Give me some numbers....

This isn't Australia. The RB22 and RB24 were popular in Japan for a very good reason.

Don't have the prices in front of me right now. If I remember correctly:

To have a shop put it in is about 500-1000 dollars ( quality of work and shop varies) Most good shops here are expensive. Have to find a decent RB25 and make sure it works. About 800-1000 dollars. Price of whatever after market turbos, etc. Price? Registration between 500-1000 dollars(unless I was told wrong.) Yearly road tax, about 200 dollars a year. We have to pay a reregistration fee every two years also which will go up in price with the bigger engine. Its 800 dollars for me with the rb20.

Are you 100 percent sure Tomei still sells the pistons? Because their website says 生産終了

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/053_RB20_piston.html

If they actually still make them I'll go buy a 2.2 kit right now...

Edited by Matvei27

Are you 100 percent sure Tomei still sells the pistons? Because their website says 生産終了

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/053_RB20_piston.html

If they actually still make them I'll go buy a 2.2 kit right now...

Unless I was lied to, they still have it.

Yahoo action Japan carries it also.

Unless I was lied to, they still have it.

Yahoo action Japan carries it also.

The listings on Yahoo don't mean anything, if you read them they say to confirm stock with the manufacturer, and often times they are outdated listings.

Unless Tomei specifically told you they have them (despite the website saying they don't make them anymore), then they probably don't.

I'll call them on Monday.

Edited by Matvei27

Don't have the prices in front of me right now. If I remember correctly:

To have a shop put it in is about 500-1000 dollars ( quality of work and shop varies) Most good shops here are expensive. Have to find a decent RB25 and make sure it works. About 800-1000 dollars. Price of whatever after market turbos, etc. Price? Registration between 500-1000 dollars(unless I was told wrong.) Yearly road tax, about 200 dollars a year. We have to pay a reregistration fee every two years also which will go up in price with the bigger engine. Its 800 dollars for me with the rb20.

A good RB25DET neo would be cheaper than building a stroker...which leaves room for paying extra at renewal time and you get the extra torque from day one.

Can you buy a 2.5L R32 and put the turbo gear in that ? Or just buy a GTS25T.

The biggest problem for an RB20 block is the bore size , this limits the chamber diameter and that limits the valve size . RB20 valve sizes are inadequate for 2.3-2.4 litres and there is nothing economically viable you can do about it . Painted into a corner you can't get out of , this is literally why a big bore (86mm) RB24 or RB25 will always make better power than a stroked RB20 . BTW there was actually a big bore RB24 which I think had the RB20 stroke crank with slightly longer rods . It may have been a pov pak third world carby option .

A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...