Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Houston we have a problem ! ! !

After months of anticipation and a shit load of car preparation in the last couple of weeks (full fluid change, discs machined, new pads, seat and harness mounts improved and lots of little issues fixed including mounting a set of Pirelli wets on new rims just for the rain that is forecast) we were doing one of our system check runs yesterday to discover we now have a bearing failure.

Unlike most Skylines with bearing problems ours is in the turbo and it is making a hell of a racket as soon as it tries to come on boost.

In addition to the entry fee we have invested money in accommodation and van hire for the day (for all of our stuff) so we will still attend but will be in a hairdressers car (e.g. 4 cylinder daily). We will still have some semi's and wets to run on the car so if it is wet we still may be able to keep up with traffic in our respective groups.

See you on Monday.

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

  • Like 1

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

I was thinking the same thing!

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

Leave them at normal pressure you would run on street then adjust as you go

Normally in the formula fords we run them a little higher, you think of it as an ice skate, you want a nice edge to cut through standing water ect. If only damp you normally run them on a preassure you are aiming to get to when fully warmed up in the dry.

So if in the dry you want your tire temps at 25psi and normaly to get that you would start at 23psi, you would just start them at 25psi and check when car returns from session and bleed until you hit that 25psi.

Also my daily will be used. My 200kw R33 so hoping to crack a 10 if not to went considering my underpowered R32 gets mid 15's

ECU never turned up. See you all there

Hey All,

Any suggestions on tyre pressures for a wet rainy coldish day?? Should it just be left normal or would you guys consider a change for this type of weather??

Im pretty sure my pathetically slim and cheap tyres are gonna struggle, need all the help i can get :0

Thanks

Not sure what sort of tyres you have, but I'd put at least 40psi cold in there. You can always let air out.

Not sure what sort of tyres you have, but I'd put at least 40psi cold in there. You can always let air out.

Hey Mate,

This sounds like the way to go, especially considering Calsonic14u's comments.

fyi, ive got Gemstone 215's all round, on17's. I know what you're thinking....wtf, wat a noob. But they came with the car and like 95% tread so i thought id rpi them up quick then upgrade. Never anticipated the rain though :no:

Lol DW im running a second hand set of Pirelli on the rear and Re001 on the front on 17s atm on my daily, needless to say i wsnt planing on running her tomorrow lol.

my tires are set atm at 36psi all round, probably wont be bleeding at all haha. dont even think im taking tools :P

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
    • Well the articals keep saying a Q50s (Skyline in Japan) with a new Manual gearbox. I like the talk about the new looks with the round tail lights. I hope they bring back the retro look like they did with the Z
×
×
  • Create New...