Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

yeah sorry, not trying to alarm just inform.

also the other issue for excessively rich tune on a new motor is fuel gets past the unbedded rings and into the oil...and petrol is terrible for bearings.

I know.

Every time I fill my tank I spin another set :)

just about back to the original thread topic, my fuel is too rich and then once it is leaned out a bit, will it give a better power result..

I know now that after a short time with new plugs you can feel the car getting more sluggish and it is not long before it wont rev much past 6000rpm without playing up.

needs more WOT.

Lower compression, thought it was the same, maybe a little different with the lager capacity ?

Maybe because I suggested they did not install the starter motor properly after the build. It was OK before then ?

I love it when people say it was OK when we tried it , but the problems are there the first time you drive it out of the shop , farking black magic :merli:

have had many "could not fault" issues.

One in particular.

Hyundai imax.

Stalls randomly.

4 service staff drove the car over 8 days(randomly and myself included).

Didn't happen once.

Customer comes in, drives, stalled.

Still trying to figure it out.

Just very hard as we can't replicate, so don't know if what we have done has worked.

Windsor exhaust did the mid muffler and i did the rear cannon which i made out of a HKS Super Drager

+1 for Windsor exhaust (west Sydney).

Built my 4 inch system, fairly quiet, just the way I wanted.

Fingers crossed this gets sorted soon.

Got everything X ,

All very frustrating , when you think they are putting the right bits in to make everything work and one keeps finding shit that is not up to the job, now the down pipe is too small :(

Paul was saying this exhaust system should never have been built this way in the first place for this build, should have been at least 4" through to the tail.

I think he said he is running twin 3" , that makes mine seem very inadequate for a 3.2 .

Any other suggestions , trouble is I feel like I have spent enough and I know I should bite the bullet and go 4" , any idea what this would cost, The old one cost about $3500 including the down pipe, they just used the old 3" Cat.

Hax near parra (can't remember his shop name) is the best guy for that job pete..

I got my exhaust done for a lot less then that and it's very very good quality steal, workman ship and I dare say there was more labour then yours by the time he did the turbo side and intake too.

Even welded new brackets for my cooler and bored out the compressor outlet of the turbo.

I can tell you I would have had a lot of change left over for 3500!

post-47556-0-77644200-1430220433_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-59852800-1430220463_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-60012700-1430220517_thumb.jpgpost-47556-0-93516300-1430220584_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1

What size is that 4"

Here is the final Dyno tune , he said it had back pressure as the 3" exhaust is too small, I said he had a 3.5" fitted but it turns out only from the Cat to the tail and the down pipe was 3"

post-52098-0-26743200-1430221417_thumb.gif

Edited by Nismo 3.2ish

Yea 4inch to the cat.. 3.5 after.. Your turbo is bigger then mine pete

If I run a 4" to one of those Venom 5" and left the 3.5" exhaust system on , would that work OK ?

You know I am not chasing a zillion HP, just want the farking thing to work

If I run a 4" to one of those Venom 5" and left the 3.5" exhaust system on , would that work OK ?

You know I am not chasing a zillion HP, just want the farking thing to work

That's exactly what I'd be doing.

Heaps of combinations, but you want to try keep it legal as possible (probably isn't anyway :yes: ) and flow well. So the 4" from the dump is the best as you want bigger there. Then stepping down to 3.5" after the cat is perfect and can muffle some of the noise generated from this beast.

If you didn't have to worry about emissions or noise, which would never happen in the real world, then the perfect idea would be to just route a dump pipe out the side of the car.

  • Like 1

Yea that would work fine I reckon mate

If you do the Math, the area and flow of a 4inch pipe is soooo much greater then 3"

4" is equivalent area to twin 3".

My 4" in mild steel with cat, mufflers and welding the wastegate was 1700.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From my youth: GTi-R clutch change is a massive pain. The gearboxes are fragile? But the car is super cool and I want one 😢 
    • Remember this is 1988 tech.
    • Driveline vibration is resolved. I ended up loosening all my engine mount and trans mount bolts, giving it a good shake then retightening everything and it's gone... Let's just say I was surprised that fixed it.  I've been happily driving it around again but unfortunately put zero time into my direct port/constant pressure WMI setup. I'm on vacation next week, so I'll try and finalize it then.  On a different note, I spent all week fuel/ignition mapping 2x 216L V16 engines. Turbo's were burning glycol and we swapped them out for larger units. We also had planned emissions testing on site, so I figured I'd be there the same week to use their instrumentation and massage any emissions issues out if needed. This was a first for me. Fuel management is similar in certain ways to automotive (i.e air density as load variable) but very different in others. It's all PLC based and AFR's are controlled by air and not fuel. They use a control valve between the turbo and air manifold to control pressure which in turn controls AFR's. Due to this, target AFR tables supplied by the OEM are in pressures and not mass which really through me off. They use air pressure vs fuel pressure tables. I also relied on an O2 concentration sensor the emissions team had in the exhaust. Ignition timing was also all over the place and we were losing a fair bit of power. They're now happily sitting at 16-40BTDC depending on load. We were making about 1600kw at 900rpm at 90% load. Engines were running a lot smoother as well.    
    • heh, aint no R32 ever meeting modern targa cage rules unless the driver is veeeery short OP, good luck with the sale, since its already in the land of freedom I'm sure you will find a good buyer.
    • meh, it was a good video, clear about the issue and how he dealt with it. A bit heavy on the RTV and very brave to put an RB in anything without rebuilding it first, but otherwise I thought it was good Dose, I'm not sure that having the pickup forward is a big issue; yes of course the oil could shift under brakes but the sump should never be empty enough for that to be a problem (unless you also have a higher volume oil pump, and that oil can't return from the head to the sump quickly enough)
×
×
  • Create New...