Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$1100 is about right for a full head service.

Yeah, that's why I wasn't complaining

It seems like a fair price for the job involved :yes:

I'd rather pay the amount, have it done once and have it done right :banana:

Seems a bit exxy to me - we just had our head & block done - pretty much what you listed except we supplied the valve stem seals (they came with the OEM engine gasket kit), and the exhaust studs had recently been replaced. Other work done included dipping the block, reboring & honing, decking, & boring the oil returns larger. Price included ACL series race main & big end bearings & all welsh plugs for head & block. Grand total (including parts) was $700. All work was done by a long-time & well respected one-man machine shop. head was returned completely assembled including welsh plugs, and block was returned bare.

Hmm, that's weird but I guess everywhere is going to have a different labour rate :yes:

I spoke to a couple of people over here (namely mechanics) and they seemed to think this was a fair price.

Are you in WA? :turned:

Be careful with getting engines cleaned, you can end up with more problems as clearances may increase eg. if the lifters are worn and their bore, cleaning them could potentially lead to noisy lifters as they start bleeding down.

Edited by AngryRB

SA

I'm in WA, so I can't even get a quote from this guy :angry:

Be careful with getting engines cleaned, you can end up with more problems as clearances may increase eg. if the lifters are worn and their bore, cleaning them could potentially lead to noisy lifters as they start bleeding down.

See, this sort of stuff I don't know as I don't specialise in head work, but this sort of stuff makes me nervous! :/

I just like stuff to be done all good with no issues :glare:

  • 2 weeks later...

Great thread so far, Josh, looking forward to seeing more :yes:

Thanks Neville! Good to see another happy reader :D

Yeah, shouldn't be too much longer till the Head gets it's work done and then my car will be driveable again! :banana:

I noticed you are in Perth? Ever heard of "Nissan or Nothing Car Club"? :thumbsup:

I came to a track day not too long ago to watch a few NoN cars at the RAC track.

Good fun but I'm yet to come on a cruise haha. My car has only just been tuned so now I can actually drive it ?

I came to a track day not too long ago to watch a few NoN cars at the RAC track.

Good fun but I'm yet to come on a cruise haha. My car has only just been tuned so now I can actually drive it

Oh.. Neville W right?

Yeah I remember man :yes:

I run the club :nyaanyaa:

Oh awesome, should be holding a cruise soon so will be good to see how your car goes after the tune :D

Hey guys!

Not much on the update front unfortunately!

Hopefully come July 12th I can start updating again as I find out about my job :turned:

If I get the good news, I am going to get the Head finished and buy the Head Studs and Head Gasket

Then videos will ensue of the (Pardon the pun) Head Job :rofl2:

I am also really contemplating throwing in some Tomei PonCams! Hmmm :dry:

  • 1 month later...

Guess who's back!? I am! You guy's thought you could get rid of me, didn't you?

It's not that easy! All is good with my job, so the car journey continues! I picked up my head about 30 minutes ago from HeadTorque:

post-104024-0-13059900-1435980291_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-97327000-1435980298_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-65072400-1435980305_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-51345500-1435980308_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-63917800-1435980311_thumb.jpg

Gerry @ HeadTorque did an amazing job! Would highly recommend him to any one in WA needing head work!

Really nice, up front and honest guy, helped me from start to finish and always kept me in the loop and answered my question, price was good too!

So far I have the dead-line set for 1\8\15 :yes:

Next week I will be picking up some ARP Head Studs so stay tuned for that :D

Man it feels good to get the ball rolling with this again :banana:

Until next week guys and girls :cheers:

  • Like 2

So.. it's that time again, update time!

Just picked up my ARP Head Stud's from Precision International in Malaga

post-104024-0-59119800-1436519432_thumb.jpg

Simple photo, but you get the idea :yes:

Tune in next week for the pickup of my Head Gasket,

Until then people! :thumbsup:

Sounds great mate, should have some fun with it pretty soon, how much power you expecting?

Yeah man, I can't wait to just drive the thing! My Pulsar is a good daily but it doesn't beat the feeling of boost :no:

The whole reason this is happening is because of low-compression, but I am replacing all the parts with good quality stuff because - Do it once, do it right :thumbsup:

In saying that though, I have juts received my tax return, So I am going to be buying (If 6Boost get back to me :dry:) a 6Boost Low-Mount Twin-Scroll Manifold

I was going to run a Low-Mount, Twin-Scroll Precision Turbo on it, however apparently they have issues with the VBand not clamping correctly, causing a slight exhaust leak etc

So I think I might just be boring and run a Low-Mount, Twin-Scroll Garrett GTX3076R w .64 Rear Housing

My goal is only 400rwhp, I'll keep that power figure whilst I build my actual engine :rolleyes:

Need injectors too, I am looking @ some 740cc Deatschwerks - http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb25det/1993-98-rb25det/01j-00-0740-6-detail

Oh, and an FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

Ah ok, ive been down that twin scroll path with a GT3076, wouldn't do it again but maybe it will work better for you as there's a few ways to do it..

Ask Scotty about a set of Xspurts, they are awesome injectors and ridiculously cheap, you can use the stock reg with deatchworks cant you or are you planning on an aftermarket rail?

Edited by AngryRB

Ah ok, ive been down that twin scroll path with a GT3076, wouldn't do it again but maybe it will work better for you as there's a few ways to do it..

Ask Scotty about a set of Xspurts, they are awesome injectors and ridiculously cheap, you can use the stock reg with deatchworks cant you or are you planning on an aftermarket rail?

Oh really? Why wouldn't you do it again?

I'll look into that! I do have my heart set on Deatschwerks though :P

I haven't actually looked that far yet haha, gotta get my car running first :whistling:

I think I'll research the pro's and con's of both when it comes to it :D

Hey guys, It's my 100th post! :worship:

Annnnnnnnnnnnnd.... It's UPDATE TIME again! :banana:

Picked up my Permaseal MLSR Head Gasket today

post-104024-0-82457400-1436960386_thumb.jpg

It's 1.3mm thick, I wanted 1.2mm (as that's stock Nissan thickness), however Permaseal only started at 1.3mm. Spoke with HeadTorque and they advised it would be ok to run 1.3mm :thumbsup:

One of the main reasons I went with Permseal, aside from quality, is that it comes with an additional Stopper Layer which is good for high boost cars.

Given my power-goal, that was a no brainer :yes:

Next week I will be ordering a Genuine Nissan Water Pump from Kudos Motorsports - http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-water-pump-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-gts25t-r34-gtr-rb25det-rb26dett-p-22.html

So that will be the next update,

Until then guys! :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...