Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

um nah only had the car 4 2 weeks..hacnt had chance 2 get it dynoed......an yeah soon as i touch the throttle it blowws LOTS of smoke...an i mean LOTS.......it dont wait secons then come out..its as soon as u touch the throttle i comes out....

um i was gonna try 2 drive it but soon as i gave it sum gas 2 get going it jus blew like so much smoke out i wasnt funny i figured i was best left off......

an i dont know if turbo is blown or not..im gonn pull it off in the mornin an c.....how can ya tell by lookin at it.......an i think it is my turbo cause the cooler is filled with oil......

Your answer Chris

if its thrown the exh wheel of the turbo it wont smoke hard from a cold start untill the exh gets a bit warm and the oil starts burning in the exh housing and exh(couple of minutes). Happened on mine, spat the exh wheel out, no real smoke till it warmed up a bit and then massive plumes of white smoke out the exh under throttle

im assuming if its rings it'll smoke whenever theres pressure in the cylinder/s regardless of engine temp

ok then,

i have gone out 2 c the mess again this morning...... :) um i started it an put the foot down....the turbo spooled up an it blew whitey grey smoke......so wat is me best answer as 2 wat 2 do now.....??? thanx guys

white smoke is if the turbo is blown generally, blue for engine, black if ur running very rich.

Your basically describing white smoke as far as i can tell. (whitey grey). Does the turbo whine at all on boost? I'd get a bov as well even if it is stock. It may be stuffed rings but from what i was always told, blue smoke equals engine, white equals turbo. I suggest putting a bov on and borrowing another turbo from someone and giving that a quick try. I'd clean everything out first though.

Did u buy the car from anyone off here?

no smoke under the oil cap......

no smoke newere exept im masses out of my exaust... an turbo is throwing LOTS an mean LOTS of oil straight up the intake pipe an into the motor.....i took the cap of were the BOV is meant 2 b.....an as i reved it it threw like u buket load of oil out of the hole....

personally with how it looks..i reakon its a turbo seal has gone.....an its jus throwing all the oil up the pipes into the motor then the oil is burning an thats y it has so much smoke coming out....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...