Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

GTR brake upgrade,

I have been speaking to Brakes direct and have got some prices for brake upgrades with a 5% discount on 3 purchases and greater discounts with more interest

Alcon 6 pot fronts 378mm with 2 piece DBA 5000 rotors normally $2997 ($2848) with current discount

Alcon 6 pot fronts 365mm with 2 piece DBA 5000 rotors normally $2697 ($2562) with current discount

Alcon 4 pot Rear 335mm with 2 piece DBA 5000 rotors normally $2497 ($2373) with current discount (works with standard handbrake assembly)

All kits come with street brakes and can be upgraded for race pads depending on what you prefer for aprox $200 more.

Greatest advantage of this kit and reason for the cheaper price is the ability to run DBA rotors instead of Alcons which would run almost double the price.

The replacement cost on rotors is $385 for 365mm and $399 for 378mm each

All kits come with mounting brackets and offer free delivery Australia wide.

If all goes well order will be placed by the end of the month.

If you are genuinely interested please send me a PM as i will be posting this on a few pages.

post-96006-0-07574900-1429510450_thumb.jpg

post-96006-0-85229600-1429510460_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455896-alcon-brake-upgrade-group-buy/
Share on other sites

What do the mounting brackets look like? Can we use standard/existing lines? Also whats the thickness of the rotors and any modification required to fit a 32gtr?

Edited by Jaeyon

i have been told they are direct bolt on with the correct bracket and the original lines should be compatible. i forgot to ask about thickness of rotor tho so not sure, but feel free to call and ask them. brackets will look something like this depending on model

post-96006-0-56305200-1429526014_thumb.jpg

How is the clearance with the 365mm under stock gtr rims? Does it retain the stock lengrh brake lines? (I have HEL braided lines)

Also is it possible to buy just the caliper and adaptor by itself?

Cheers

How is the clearance with the 365mm under stock gtr rims? Does it retain the stock lengrh brake lines? (I have HEL braided lines)

Also is it possible to buy just the caliper and adaptor by itself?

Cheers

365 clearance will be ok, 375 leaves very small gap, stones get caught and cut into rims as was discovered on a friends 32R.

Also adapters will work fine for your car Tim, you will need to space it out and shave a few mm off the hub to fit

Just an update guys, Anybody who is interested due to being a group buy the wait time on these calipers may be between 4-6 weeks.

We have been offered an alternative which i think is even better, We have been offered a free upgrade to the race version of this caliper.

The racing calipers are 600grams lighter than the road caliper, they have a removable bridge which makes changing pads a whole lot easier, and they come with knock back spring which helps keep constant pressure on the pads which reduces the need to pump the brake pedal when flying into a corner, and also helps reduce pad knock off.

These are normally $1000 more then the regular calipers so a much larger saving then the 5%.

The group buy will begin Monday and be closed by Wednesday at the latest.

If you choose to jump on board just call brakes direct on 1300724943.

PS the new caliper looks much nicer

  • Like 1

No problem, i just ordered mine now.

I also ordering a custom bracket made up for the rear brembos to space them out to run 350mm DBA 4000, 370z discs, with same pattern as the fronts.

Kit includes 2 brackets and 2 350mm DBA 4000 rotos, for $750.

Caliper picture and details for the motorsport model.

Sounds like an awesome deal for anyone looking for an upgrade.

I already have R34 Brembo 4 pots on my S14 and a pair of AP Racing 4 pots sitting around and am tempted to grab the 365mm kit!

Alcon-CR6380-spec.jpg

Edited by «Cyph3r»
  • Like 1

I'm finding Brakes Direct website hard to get around.

Can anyone comment on the hats and brackets they use? Also any experience with DBA 5000 series rotors vs Alcon would be great.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...